TR: San Martino Di Castrozza, Trentino Dolomites, Italy (March 2016)

On the recommendation of a friend who'd recently boarded nearby at Corvara; an article in Fall Line Skiing magazine where Editor-in-Chief Dickie Fincher had extolled the virtues of San Martino Di Castrozza; and a very healthy forecast of 1m+ of new snowfall from Snow Forecast I made a last minute decision to head to the Dolomites.

http://www.sanmartino.com/

http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts...rozza/6day/top

http://www.sport-invernali.com/IT/Im...L1775/2977.jpg



I'd previously worked in the Val Zoldana area of Civetta but hadn't had the opportunity to ski the more challenging terrain the area is renowned for.

The plan, tied in with the weather forecast, was to ski solo on the Wednesday and Thursday and then try to get on a tour with guide Francesco Tremolada on the Friday and/or Saturday.

http://proguide.it/



TUESDAY 01 MARCH 2016

Travel day.

Caught the Cardiff Airport bus from Cardiff Train Station, Wales at 07.41 - a bargain at £8 return - and 50 minutes later I was having a coffee in the departure lounge. The benefit of flying from a regional airport.

I flew with FlyBe direct to Milan Malpensa and even paying for the added baggage allowance of 20kg the return journey cost only £176.28

First time with FlyBe. Very impressed. Even got us there 40 mins early!

Picked up my rental car from Sicily by Car - £134 for 5-days rental all in - and then made my way to San Martino Di Castrozza.

http://www.autoeuropa.it/newae/index_new.aspx


Passed Lake Garda and Monte Baldo at sunset and got to Hotel Villa Aurora just after 21.00

They'd finished serving dinner so I walked 5 mins back into the centre of town and had two glasses of red, bruscheta, chicken cotolette and a bottle of mineral water at El Barisel.

Great food & drink in a snug little bar. All for £17.

Hotel Villa Aurora is excellent. Massive room with balcony looking out to the Rosetta ski area and free off-road parking.

5-nights B&B accommodation for £200.00 (booked through booking.com)

http://www.hotelvillaurora.it/



WEDNESDAY 02 MARCH 2016

Woke bright and early for a 07.30 buffet breakfast. Wide variety of items on offer, unlimited quantities. Very, very good.

With clear skies and no wind and the forecast of low visibilty and heavy snow for Wednesday night through to Thursday afternoon I drove the short distance to the Rosetta section of the San Martino - Passo Rolle Ski Area.

View of the Rosetta area from my balcony at the Hotel Villa Aurora

https://scontent-mxp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...7c&oe=5795367E



2 lifts (gondola and cable car), 2 pisted runs and access to a lifetime of lift-accessed and touring terrain.

Rosetta Lift Ticket £17

A Dream Of You And Me

http://youtu.be/fBZDcrkCazA



Bottom station of the Rosetta cable car

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Non-skiing tourists taking pictures of people skiing the main 'route' off the top station of the Rosetta cable car

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The view of San Martino Di Castrozza town from the top station of the Rosetta cable car

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I did two laps down the main 'route' from the top station of the Rosetta Cable Car (2600m) back to the car park. A very mixed bag of boot top powder, wind slab, sun crust and bulletproof piste.

Didn't see a soul both runs.

Certainly got me warmed up!

Took both lifts to the top again and hiked to the summit of Rosetta (2743m)

The San Martino cross at the summit of Rosetta (2743m)

https://scontent-mxp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...2f&oe=576A985C



Cimon della Pala (3184m) and Dente del Cimone (2680m) from the summit of Rosetta (2743m)

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View from the summit of Rosetta (2743m)

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The summit of Rosetta (2743m) and the top station of the Rosetta cable car

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I skied down to Rifugio Rosetta G. Pedrotti and had a look at the lines dropping into the north facing terrain, but as I was travelling solo I traversed back around and dropped into the bowl skiers right of the main 'route' off the top station of the Rosetta cable car

https://scontent-mxp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...e8&oe=575DE908



The cliff face at the end of the bowl skiers right of the main 'route'

https://scontent-mxp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...98&oe=57667392



Untracked toe to boot top powder down to the cliff face and then a skin back up to the drop in point. Worth every step. Best snow of the day by a mile.


Cimon della Pala (3184m)

https://scontent-mxp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...47&oe=576589DC



Below the Rosetta cable car

https://scontent-mxp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...23&oe=5753DD16




After the day's exertions I had dinner at Pizzeria La vecchia Fornace. Great restaurant with excellent food and service.

Deep fried stuffed olives, Paesana pizza - roast pork & mushroom - large heferweizen, mineral water and espresso for £18

It started snowing as I entered the restaurant and when I left there was already 5cm on the ground.



THURSDAY 03 MARCH 2016

Unfortunately the forecasted snow - anyone's guess how much but easily 30cm - came with unforecasted wind which closed all the lifts in the area for the day.

The snow and wind stopped around 16.00 in the village and the peaks are just starting to poke through the mist.

Friday is set clear and calm, so fingers crossed that the powder hasn't been hammered to submission.

Great stuff, Mike. Per usual. Thanks for posting and looking forward to more. Hope the weather works out for you.

Cheers LightRanger.

Bluebird this morning :)

THURSDAY 03 MARCH 2016 UPDATE

Whilst I was clearing the day's snow from my car the sun made a brief but spectacular appearance, setting the Dolomites on fire.

Cima Val di Roma (2791m) from my balcony at Hotel Villa Aurora

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...58&oe=575824A6



Cimon della Palla (3184m) from my balcony at Hotel Villa Aurora

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...85&oe=575E981C



https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...27&oe=574CB7B5

Right on Mike. Looks very cool, thanks for the cost beta as well.

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Originally Posted by garyfromterrace

Right on Mike. Looks very cool, thanks for the cost beta as well.

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My pleasure. Very reasonable prices. Tremendous value for money.

FRIDAY 04 MARCH 2016

Friday morning dawned bright & shiny with a fresh coat of snow across the San Martino - Passo Rolle Ski Area.

With an avalanche risk of 4 out of 5, the Fratazza trees in the Tognola area were the choice for the am.

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...24&oe=578E11AD



https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...1f&oe=5798DA49



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https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...73&oe=57512162



Fratazza Trees And Beyond

http://youtu.be/hK6-wXH2Wpc



The Pala di San Martino panorama

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...2b&oe=5761A962



https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...6c&oe=57972910



The Rosetta Ski Area, home to Wednesday's turns

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...57&oe=5751E803



https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...85&oe=575C479E



Cima Val di Roda (2791m)

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...d2&oe=579342BE



After a morning skiing the trees it was time to ski the bowl skier's left of the Cristiana red run

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...9f&oe=57661E22



Lunch was pasta di giorno - fusili with sausage & mushrooms - and sparkling water for 10 euros at Malga Valcigolera Rifugio Alpino at the base of the Coston and Valcigolera lifts. Great food with tremendous views.

Fantastic day.

fantastic indeed!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by acinpdx

fantastic indeed!

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Thanks. It was :)

SATURDAY 05 MARCH 2016

It started snowing over breakfast and by lunchtime I was getting 'free refills' in the old growth forest off the Fratazza lift in the Tognola area.

The snow was a little wet, but the pitch in the trees made it easy to let them run.

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...d7&oe=57598855



https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...ac&oe=574AE5A8



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Snorkel Saturday - Fratazza Trees

http://youtu.be/6zi__yV99VI


After a shocker 90 mins clearing snow and putting chains on the car as snow dropped out of the sky, I showered up and headed to Ranch, The Dolomites Bar.

For the third night in a row!

If you're lucky you get to visit a fantastic ski area with fantastic snow conditions and at day's end find yourself in a bar where the welcome is warm, the fod is hot and the drinks are cold.

Ranch is that bar, and some.

In what couldn't be a more picture postcard Dolomiti village, Ranch is a beacon of the awesome and the absurd. In equal measures.

A Wild West bar run by a native San Martino boy; saddles instead of stools; both types of music playing over the speakers; chicken wings, burgers and ribs on the menu; and the finest collection of gin & grappa I've had the pleasure to 'work' my way through.

The proprietor Loris is a true gent whose love of Americana and the West since a child takes him out to the States each summer to bring back more and more memories and experiences.

I cannot recommend it more highly. A must visit.

Ranch, The Dolomites Bar

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Loris pouring a glass of the finest gin I've ever tasted - Original Roby Marton

So good you can drink it neat
http://www.robymarton.com/

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United We Stand

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https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...d2&oe=574CD081



Trentino grappa

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...b8&oe=5797066F



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My favourite, grappa with bergamot

https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...12&oe=575497FF




Saddle up!

Anna mixing cocktails

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https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net...fc&oe=5761BF19


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SUNDAY 06 MARCH 2016

Thank goodness I put my chains on last night.

Another 30-40 cm overnight and the car was buried again.

Set off at 6.15 and got to Milan Malpensa airport at 11.45

The first part of the drive down the mountain was slow going, but after I took the chains off it was a breeze.

In retrospect flying into Innsbruck, Verona or Venice would be a better call but the flight times and days didn't work out for this trip.

Would halve the travel time between airport and resort compared with Milan Malpensa.



SUMMARY

I had a ball on my 6-day trip to San Martino Di Castrozza - 2 days travel, 4 days in resort - and can't recommend it highly enough

Fantastic terrain

Snow-forecast.com delivered
Snowfall before I arrived; three big snow events during my stay; two bluebird powder days; one over the head powder day

No lift lines

Wide variety of accommodation at all price points

Plenty of restaurants and bars on mountain and for apres & dinner

Great food & drink

Very welcoming people

Very good value for money


Costs

Bus from Cardiff Train Station to Cardiff airport £8.00
Flight £176.28
5-days car hire £134.00
Petrol £53.00
Tolls £25.44
5-nights B&B Accommodation at Hotel Villa Aurora £200.00
3-days Lift Pass £81.72
Food & drink £143.00

Total £821.44 / 1066 euros / US$ 1,168.33 / AUD$ 1,561.14 for 6 days (3 days skiing)

To convert to your currency please use this link
http://www.xe.com/


Travelling as a pair would reduce these costs significantly -

shared cost of car hire, petrol and tolls
single room rate was £40 per night, shared room was £27.50 per person per night

Great beta and TR! Would love to ski in the Dolomites someday. Thanks for the stoke!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MildWille

Great beta and TR! Would love to ski in the Dolomites someday. Thanks for the stoke!

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My pleasure. Hope you make it out there someday. Fabulous area.

Excellent. Also appreciate the pricing information and whatnot.

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Originally Posted by LightRanger

Excellent. Also appreciate the pricing information and whatnot.

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Yes very helpful stuff.

I saw the recommendation to my advice request in the other thread but due to travel for work I can't make it there this time. Maybe next time,

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LightRanger

Excellent. Also appreciate the pricing information and whatnot.

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My pleasure.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by abraham

Yes very helpful stuff.

I saw the recommendation to my advice request in the other thread but due to travel for work I can't make it there this time. Maybe next time,

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Definitely worth a visit.

Flying into Innsbruck on Sunday (13th) and the Dolomites seems to have the best snow conditions and the greatest chance of new snow next week.

So back to San Martino Di Costrazza or maybe Selva Val Gardena or Corvara.

This is a great read

Powder Magazine: Super Season - A Record Winter in Italy's Dolomites
https://issuu.com/powderflipbook/doc...olomites_final

Awesome TR...have family in the area two hours from there. Looks like I need to make some phone calls....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ADKmike

Awesome TR...have family in the area two hours from there. Looks like I need to make some phone calls....

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Thanks.

You definitely do :)

Thanks for the Italian Job report Mike.
The area looked deserted, no competition at all for fresh tracks?
Captivating photography, all with only a GoPro?
Very interesting especially as the link to Powder flip book proved.
Possible without any Italian skills or should I start Studio Italiano?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bigasshair

Thanks for the Italian Job report Mike.

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My pleasure.

Quote:

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The area looked deserted, no competition at all for fresh tracks?

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It was. There were other people skiing the open powder and the trees, so you crossed a few tracks at the choke points, but always able to find untracked the whole time I was there. Sometimes with skinning - Rosetta - other times straight off the lifts - Tognola.

Quote:

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Captivating photography, all with only a GoPro?

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Cheers.

Non-action shots taken on Canon 7D with 10-18mm and 70-300mm lenses.
Action shots are stills from 1080p 60fps video taken on the Sony FDR100v action cam

Quote:

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Very interesting especially as the link to Powder flip book proved.
Possible without any Italian skills or should I start Studio Italiano?

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I have VERY rudimentary Italiano and got along just fine.

More to come as I returned to the area between 13-19 March

Thanks, looking forward to more Mike.
Loris and his Ranch/Italian-Cowboy bar must have been quite entertaining, brings a whole new meaning to spaghetti western.
Forgive me but I thought you were conversant and perhaps of Milanese/Taffy extraction therefore your penchant for grappa and gin.;
Hopefully you met up with local mags to give you the 'secret stash' tour.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bigasshair

Thanks, looking forward to more Mike.
Loris and his Ranch/Italian-Cowboy bar must have been quite entertaining, brings a whole new meaning to spaghetti western.

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Ha ha. It was.

Quote:

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Forgive me but I thought you were conversant and perhaps of Milanese/Taffy extraction therefore your penchant for grappa and gin.;

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My aunt (Welsh) married an Italian (born in Italy, living in South Wales valleys) so grew up eating Italian food but limited language.

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Hopefully you met up with local mags to give you the 'secret stash' tour.

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Nope went solo the whole time. Looked at some big lines in the alpine that would have been great to hit, but flying solo I reigned myself in. Got the best out of the trees though I think :)

The next chapter

TR: Corvara, Marmolada, San Martino Di Castrozza, Trafoi, Dolomites, Italy (13-19 March 2016)
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...86#post4707786