Went out to Seaside last night to get some random sunset shots and it turned into quite the little session. Tom Curren was out there surfing a little skimboard, but I didn't get good shots of it.
ENJOY !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSgUKBhlncE
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Went out to Seaside last night to get some random sunset shots and it turned into quite the little session. Tom Curren was out there surfing a little skimboard, but I didn't get good shots of it.
ENJOY !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSgUKBhlncE
Nice! Looks fun out there.
Reminds me why I don't really miss surfing in So Cal. Wind chopped, blown out, close outs with dudes dropping in even when it's waist high and no shoulder. Cool sunset session video, but those good days buried deep in my memories are so over glorified when I recall them that it takes clips like this to remind me how few and far between the good days were.
Cheers
I don't know. I can recall Many,Many,Many good evening sessions mid winter at Sunset Cliffs. Lots of glassy mornings along LaJolla reefs , Boat sessions galore at Doughnuts and dolphins.
and really looking forward to another El Nino
Nice video. That left looks really fun.
Call me a kook, but we're calling that "blown out"?
Mid winter and spring before school gets out always had great conditions but too many small days with island blockage in San Clemente always left me wanting more. San Diego always was slightly better than San Clemente on any given swell.Quote:
Originally Posted by TEXASS
^^^^^ This is what I gave up on. I dont even consider going untill I see 4 ft on the forecast. And then I look closely. I just dont enjoy knee to chest high surf . I run and keep my cardio up but when I go surfing I want to surf. Small waves remind me of where I grew up . hated itQuote:
too many small days
Texass from Texas? Go figure.
I agree with split to a degree. I still surf the slop often enough. Running and cardio do nothing for keeping your paddling in check. Or your glide. Sub chest high, less than crisp, then it is exercise paddle out. Keeping your trim and pop in order. I try to surf at least 2-3 days a week, so that when it does get good, say like last Monday, and you only have a sliver of time to get out, you do not hesitate to paddle out into the ultra clean, DOH plus long period grinders and settle yourself right into the impact zone. If I had spent too much time running, I would have been all jitters. Instead, I claimed a few before dark.
The session in the video reminds me of an exercise session. Can still be super fun as long as you do not hype it as anything else in advance. Had to Google these two dudes. Guess I'm not hip on the surf culture these days. Anyone else miss Kong and Carroll and Pottz?
I actually love San Clemente. I drive down quite a bit from Newport. I love the Trestles area during the summer. Having said that, I don't surf nearly as much in the winter, as I ski a whole lot more. I don't know if I agree about San Diego being better than San Clemente, at least not in the summer. San Diego definitely gets better winter surf, but in the summer I would take San Clemente.Quote:
Originally Posted by splitinbend
Splitinbend, where do you surf now?
^^^bachelor. :FIREdevil
I love playing in the trestles area. crowded as fuck, but fuck it. it can be fun.
I prefer it up here. When it is clean enough to leave town you can easily surf by yourself if that is what you wish. I didn't wish that. It was more crowded than I wanted, but it was OH, glassy, with a little lump and the crowd never exceeded a dozen. And no one intentionally dropped in on anyone. And among the crowd was a pro hopeful and used to be, kind of still is pro. But they took turns. Whenever I surf down south I prepare myself for the take no prisoners style of getting waves. Occasionally it is more civil than that, but not typically from my experience. And it makes sense. Very limited resources and huge populations centers. At least the SF crowd has to be able to paddle out at OB to clog the lineups. Not that SC is crowded in town. It is. But not Lowers crowded.
I never surf Lowers. Don't get me wrong, I love the wave, but I'm just not aggressive enough, or good enough, to get my fill there. One summer I tried to make it work, going down there with a bunch of my buddies a lot, but I just couldn't handle getting one maybe two waves a session. It is a great wave, but that is just not worth it. I prefer the area between Uppers and Cotton's, which some call Barbedwires. It can get really fun, although not as good as the other zones, and it is not nearly as crowded. Sometimes it gets a left that really wraps nicely. I used to surf Middles, which is between Lowers and Churchres (no sure why it is called Middles), but that is too long of a walk for me now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
There are lots of places in the Trestles area that get fun. For me it is just finding the little lulls in the crowd. Barbedwires is really not too bad of a crowd, not like the other areas anyway.
That music made me want to poke my ears out with skewers.
Nice stoke other than that.
Running keeps my cardio up fine. You gotta go fast, and up steep hills. Only way I can get out of the truck and Skin up with all my Tahoe friends is to run daily.
It doesn't get much better than San Clemente but as somebody that doesn't make a ton of money in my area of work, I could never even fathom paying the house prices, but it was fun growing up and surfing there. I surf Pacific City mostly if I'm heading out to the Oregon coast, but I prefer surfing Bachy, that is the truth.Quote:
Originally Posted by Long duc dong
Trestles was fun when you got it with small crowds but it drew so many people from around So Cal that too many times I left early more frustrated than relaxed. My wife and I liked surfing Middles and Churches when there was swell but I mostly surfed at the beach breaks in town, preferably Riviera and Lost Winds. I don't surf much now that I live in Oregon but I traded the beach bum life for seasons, rivers, trees and everything that goes along with it. It's rare that I miss surfing but this summer after last winter seasons fail I really got the hunger to shred. I kept thinking about empty lineups down in Mex.
I always scored south of the border. Interpret that however you want.
Cheers
^^^ is that a reference to donkey sex.
I get it. I don't want to walk away from the surf, but I know I could if I moved to the right mountains. Although, I do imagine I would find myself traveling to low grade high quality surf destinations each summer. Maybe choosing a long, easy to make, left hand, gratifying point break in Central America to go too for a few weeks. Although, in reality, I'd likely be working my ass off in summer to prep for the winter.
So happy turkey town is a high grade fast hard core wave......stay away