Got this from my best bud. Nothing makes me bang my head on the desk more than reading friends stories travelling in far corners of the globe and getting some. :D
http://www.jessicalim.info/morocco03...occo%20032.jpg
http://www.jessicalim.info/morocco03...occo%20006.jpg
http://www.jessicalim.info/morocco03...occo%20001.jpg
Howdy all
Just thought I'd drop you a line about my recent adventures to Marocco.
Jess
has set up a site with shots from the trip. See
http://www.jessicalim.info/morocco03/. If you get bored scrolling the
maxing
waves are from 30 on.
Went with a new surf travel company called Wavehunters (see:
wavehunters.co.uk) and stayed near Agadir in the South of the country.
It
gets hammered with swell during winter so I was pretty hopeful to get
some
good waves.
On the day we arrived it was virtually flat so surfed a right point
break
near where we were staying called Mysteries. It picked up the next day
and
surfed a right point break (in fact 90% of waves are right point breaks
in
the area) called Boilers so-named cause of a sunken boat boiler
sticking up
where you take off. It was almost high tide when we surfed it and
coming in
and dodging jagged rocks was interesting but got through it relatively
unscathed.
The surf kept building so the next day was pumping 4-5 ft and surfed a
really great set-up called Killers - apparently killer whales cruise
round
the break sometimes - breaks about 300 meters from shore so wouldn't
surprise me. Swell seemed to be building so we were pretty psyched for
the
next day.
Being a Friday night we all (9 of us) decided we'd check out Agadir and
of
course being a resort town we all partook in the night life and had a
few
too many drinks. Sure enough when we surfaced the next morning the
legendary
spot in the area, Ankar Point was firing at about 6-8 ft. The tide was
just
right too but I was still drunk and smelled like a brewery. After one
of the
boys tried paddling out from the beach and almost got washed up onto
the
rocks wehre we were staying we decided to go home sober up and give it
another crack that arvo. I was pissed off that we'd got hammered when
the
waves were so good but figured there'd still be plenty of waves later.
The arvo came and after a drive to check out huey's good work -
including
seeing some maxing 10 foot sets at Boilers I decided I'd give Ankar
Point a
crack at high tide - huge mistake. The normal jump off rock was covered
and
the water was almost coming into the living rooms of the houses on the
point
- this should have probably warned me off but I was pretty keen to get
amongst it.
I got into my wettie and watched set after set roll in for a good half
hour.
When there appeared a bit of a lull I ran over the rocks to where I
thought
would be a make-shift jump off rock. What happened next is still a bit
of a
blur.
I waited for the push of the wave and then jumped off as far as I
could. I
thought this would get me clear of the rocks and more or less out thte
back.
Instead I had jumped into a hole in the rock which as soon as I jumped
off
sucked up dry and flipped me and my board over.
The boys on the point say I did a full flip and what I do remember is
hitting the rocks below fucking hard.
All in all I was very lucky the only major gash was from my board
hitting me
(actually a mate's board - thanks Pete) just below my liip - this
needed 3
stitches but after the pounding I took I was lucky to walk away from
it.
Well - that's my story for the day - been trying to figure out a moral
for
you all. The last ski trip I went on I threw my back out first day and
missed out on 5 days of powder and now this happens.
Apart from just becoming an old fart who can no longer push like he
used to
maybe the real lesson is "LOOK BEFORE YOU LEAP".
Norbs
