Anyone know of a more curved Go Pro mount for more rounded helmet sections?

Hey guys, I have a Smith Vantage helmet, and the Go Pro curved mount isn't curved enough to get a matching fit on the front of the helmet just above the visor. If you use the stock curved mount, the adhesive won't be completely in contact with the helmet, it'll only touch in the middle and the fore and aft ends of the mount will be off the surface, no good.

Has anyone seen or devised a solution for this?

I was thinking of replacing the adhesive with perhaps a thicker 3m adhesive foam that can conform to the radius of the helmet in that spot, even though the plastic mount will not. Not a great solution, but possible. Another idea I had is to remove the adhesive, heat gun the mount and form it exactly to the radius of the surface, and then apply a new adhesive foam piece. Only concern there is that by heat gunning the mount, it might make the plastic brittle.

I searched for a thread on this, didn't find one, but if it's already been covered, could someone share a link?

Thank you

Dave

Just what youtube needs, more shaky helmet cam footage.

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Originally Posted by Super D

Hey guys, I have a Smith Vantage helmet, and the Go Pro curved mount isn't curved enough to get a matching fit on the front of the helmet just above the visor. If you use the stock curved mount, the adhesive won't be completely in contact with the helmet, it'll only touch in the middle and the fore and aft ends of the mount will be off the surface, no good.

Has anyone seen or devised a solution for this?

I was thinking of replacing the adhesive with perhaps a thicker 3m adhesive foam that can conform to the radius of the helmet in that spot, even though the plastic mount will not. Not a great solution, but possible. Another idea I had is to remove the adhesive, heat gun the mount and form it exactly to the radius of the surface, and then apply a new adhesive foam piece. Only concern there is that by heat gunning the mount, it might make the plastic brittle.

I searched for a thread on this, didn't find one, but if it's already been covered, could someone share a link?

Thank you

Dave

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Sorry no idea.

But you could win the 21st century problem thread though.

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Originally Posted by Beetman

Just what youtube needs, more shaky helmet cam footage.

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Agreed. I'm trying to get a very secure mounting solution which matches the radius of the surface, so that combined with a snug helmet and locking plug installed (plus a thin shim underneath the cam latch between the latch and the base) should result in footage which isn't shaky.

Or, did I misunderstand, and you're just down on helmet cam footage? :)

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Originally Posted by Super D

Agreed. I'm trying to get a very secure mounting solution which matches the radius of the surface, so that combined with a snug helmet and locking plug installed (plus a thin shim underneath the cam latch between the latch and the base) should result in footage which isn't shaky.

Or, did I misunderstand, and you're just down on helmet cam footage? :)

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You misunderstood. Helmet cam footage almost ALWAYS sucks.

Why are you trying to mount it so far forward? Do you want to be able to point down at your skis?
You may find a better radius match if you move up an inch or two.
If you are dead-set on mounting to that part of your helmet, I would use the heat gun reshaping approach. Just try to reshape at as low a heat as possible to reduce the chance that you make it brittle.

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Originally Posted by Beetman

You misunderstood. Helmet cam footage almost ALWAYS sucks.

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I'm attempting to create non-sucky footage, and one of the factors is getting a secure/non-shaky mounting solution. The rest is up to the shooter and the subject.

For example, here's some quality helmet cam footage (in my opinion):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-y70ZOSzE0

If you post a thread asking for help with something, if I know a possible answer, I'll help you by sharing what I know. Instead of what you just did.

Try Sugru

A ton of third party mount makers now.. especially with 3D printers all the rage.

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Originally Posted by From_the_NEK

Why are you trying to mount it so far forward? Do you want to be able to point down at your skis?
You may find a better radius match if you move up an inch or two.
If you are dead-set on mounting to that part of your helmet, I would use the heat gun reshaping approach. Just try to reshape at as low a heat as possible to reduce the chance that you make it brittle.

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I have the mount up to the point where the surface radius matches the mount radius, but it's too far back. I have an extension arm to shoot back toward me and include the scene to the sides and below, and already tried shooting with it mounted on the top mount, but the cam is too close. Trying to get the lens farther out ahead so the wide angle doesn't create as much distortion on the subject.

If I don't find another option, definitely going to try experimenting with molding by heat. I'd imagine if I do that, the mounting tracks may no longer fit the latch well since the tracks will need to bend as they're incorporated into the base plate. There has to be a better way somebody has come up with...I'm hoping.

Also interested in trying an extension w/swivel mount. The footage I've seen using those is pretty phenomenal.

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Originally Posted by From_the_NEK

Why are you trying to mount it so far forward? Do you want to be able to point down at your skis?

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One of the best angles.

Perhaps a PM to the heartcarve guy "adria33?" is in order. He had some strange boom thing to capture his skillz

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Originally Posted by Beetman

One of the best angles.

Perhaps a PM to the heartcarve guy "adria33?" is in order. He had some strange boom thing to capture his skillz

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Thanks, will do.

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Originally Posted by systemoverblow'd

Try Sugru

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Saw someone make a diy gopole with that stuff, pretty neat. Have you tried it? This may be just the ticket.

I read that it was removable, so I looked on their site to see how to...how's this for a sliced digit waiting to happen! :)
http://sugru.com/guides/how-to-remove-sugru

I cut the center portion of the 3m adhesive out so the edge makes contact, then put a dab of hot glue in there and stuck it to a clean and scuffed surface. Finally use hot glue around the mount. Let set in room temp 24 hrs. 3 years with no failure so far.

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Originally Posted by Super D

Saw someone make a diy gopole with that stuff, pretty neat. Have you tried it? This may be just the ticket.

I read that it was removable, so I looked on their site to see how to...how's this for a sliced digit waiting to happen! :)
http://sugru.com/guides/how-to-remove-sugru

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I never have but there is a thread around here about it. Just thought it may be an idea. Maybe try searching that thread out?

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

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Originally Posted by kidwoo

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

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Are you saying screw the damned thing to my helmet?...Or, I'm screwed? :D

Buy a tripod mount and a 1/4 20 bolt.


Adhesives on something that vibrates a lot are rather useless. Sticky pads are what leads to threads that read "anyone find a gopro?"

Bolt it on and it doesn't matter what the surface is shaped like.

make you helmet less curved using a hammer. then use the stock mount.

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Originally Posted by spook

make you helmet less curved using a hammer. then use the stock mount.

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C'mon, man...That's a ridiculous idea.






Everybody knows you don't use a hammer.

You crash directly on the top of your head while throwing a back flip off a small kicker.

Style. It's all about style.

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Originally Posted by kidwoo

Buy a tripod mount and a 1/4 20 bolt.


Adhesives on something that vibrates a lot are rather useless. Sticky pads are what leads to threads that read "anyone find a gopro?"

Bolt it on and it doesn't matter what the surface is shaped like.

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Have seen some screwed-on mount jobs...but two things. Can't you run a tether line to the cam, so it doesn't get lost? I've seen the tethers GoPro makes, haven't used one yet myself yet. And, wouldn't you want the cam to break free of the mount in a hard header instead of the bolt head getting embedded in your skull, or the cam acting as a lever on the top of your helmet? I don't have knowledge of whether those concerns are valid, but my inclination is to think the tether and a breakaway mount would be safest for your melon, no?

No one says it has to be right on the top of your head.

Use your imagination. It's only a lever if you make it a lever.


Oh fuck it......you won't figure it out. Mount it upside down on the forehead part of the helmet so the back sits almost flush with the shell.

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Originally Posted by kidwoo

No one says it has to be right on the top of your head.

Use your imagination. It's only a lever if you make it a lever.


Oh fuck it......you won't figure it out. Mount it upside down on the forehead part of the helmet so the back sits almost flush with the shell.

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I didn't say it has to be right on the top of your head; in the original post, I was asking if there was a way to mount it farther to the front of the helmet which has a tighter radius than the curved mount accommodates. That was the whole purpose of this thread.

Screwing into the cam mount through the helmet would seem to make it so there is no break-away capability, so I'm not sure how to avoid creating a lever out of the cam/mount in that case. Can you elaborate on how to mount with a bolt and not make a lever? Any pics of what you did (or an example you like) would be most appreciated if you can share.

As for your last line, if I'm a jerk to you, then by all means, retaliate. I'm not going to be a jerk to you though, so that won't happen. Save the crustiness for someone who deserves it, okay?

Thanks for your help, I appreciate it.

Dave

Oh fuck it......you won't figure it out. Mount it upside down on the forehead part of the helmet so the back sits almost flush with the shell.

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Originally Posted by kidwoo

Oh fuck it......you won't figure it out. Mount it upside down on the forehead part of the helmet so the back sits almost flush with the shell.

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Hey, thanks! :dork: