TR: Western Balkans Part I - Popova Shapka, Macedonia (January 2011)
With most of the Alps dry throughout January it was time to look to the far corners of Europe for some powder.
As I was trawling the interweb, this article appeared in the Guardian newspaper in the UK
Snowboarding the Balkan Bloc
http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/201...arding-resorts
Snow forecast was calling for over 1m of fresh in the coming week at Popova Shapka, Macedonia and after looking at a few websites and getting replies from the forums the flight was booked and I was on my way.
Exploring Macedonia
http://www.exploringmacedonia.com/
Popova Shapka
http://www.popova-sapka.mk/site/index.php (in Macedonian)
http://popovasapka.com/
http://makedonija.name/land/popova-sapka-ski-resort
Quote:
Popova Sapka, Macedonia ... High above Tetovo on the Sar Mountain, there is the Popova Sapka ski resort (Popova Šapka, Popova Shapka), a major winter destination in north-western Macedonia. Popova Sapka is part of the wider Tetovo region and minucipality.
Popova Sapka is just the ski resort, a district including Popova Sapka hotels and other accommodation, a refuge (called Smreka) & the weekend settlement that rises on the opposite side of the ski slopes & lifts.
The Popova Sapka ski resort, represents the most visited tourist destination allover the Tetovo region. The road is in the middle between the settlement and the ski terrain, that rise up on the opposite sides.
The resort Popova Sapka can be accessed by the local road from Tetovo (18 km) and on to Skopje (48 km).
The ski slopes in Popova Sapka are first class & start at 1,690 meters above the sea level. They are connected by chair and drag-lifts.
Popova Sapka is home of military base of the Macedonian Army & meteorological station.
According to certain sources, a legend exist, how this area of Sar (Shar, Šar) Planina was named Popova Sapka (Popova Šapka). The legend says an orthodox priest exerting the evangelical mission, was killed like a martyr (and the body remained to be torn asunder by the wild animals), while visiting the orthodox-macedonian homes through the villages.
At this district, where only the priest's hat (on macedonian "kamilavka") was found - was named in his honor, Popova Sapka (English - Priest's Hat).
DAY 1 : FRIDAY 21 JANUARY 2011
Return bus travel from cardiff to London Gatwick - 63 euros
Return Air Austria flight from Gatwick to Skojpe, Macedonia - 238 euros
The flight via Podgorica, Montenegro was an absolute pleasure.
Arrived in Skopje airport around 8pm with nothing open in the arrivals lounge. As soon as you go through customs you're on the street and trying to work your way through the throng of families, friends, and taxi drivers meeting the flight.
Walked in to the departure area to get money changed and then waited for a guy to approach me asking 'taxi? you want taxi?'
55 euros o/w to Popova Shapka. 20 euros o/w to Skopje city, so a bargain. And that's for the car not per person.
Pissing down with rain all the way to Tetovo, and as we climbed out of the city the rain quickly turned to sleet and then snow.
Got about a third of the way up the mountain road before the city taxi's tyres failed. Reversed back down to the nearest junction and back in to Tetovo to swap to a taxi that had winter tyres.
First driver tried to bamboozle me with the payment but once he knew I was wise to him, it was all good.
The new driver drove up like a legend.
House / techno all the way up even though he was in his late 60s. English language radio programme from somewhere in the Balkans. Nocturna. Shape shifters.
Rain, to sleet, to snow again although the freezing level had dropped since the first attempt.
By the time we got to Hotel Slavija there was 5-10cm on the road.
I sent an email the day before to the hotel saying I was on my way. Fair play as soon as I arrived, they put 2 and 2 together and had my single room booking ready for me.
26 euros a night single B&B. Free wifi throughout the hotel including my room.
One of the two resort / energy company / government owned hotels.
A little worn, but clean and warm. Staff were great. Food solid and cheap.
Hotel Slavija, Popova Shapka
http://travel2macedonia.com.mk/accom...a-popova-sapka
Had a chicKen sandwich and a a 20cl bottle of T'Ga Za Jug Vranec, Macedonian red wine. Fabulous. Sat with two policemen / security watching a Macedonian variety show and then an English language show nature about tigers in the background.
Just three people staying in the hotel tonight. Met one other, Joe. From N California originally, most recently just outside of Washington D.C., working in Pristina, Kosovo. Here for the weekend with a friend, Erin. Another American working in Pristina.
Emails done it was time for bed.
Snow was continuing to fall outside the window and balcony, and my first day skiing looked very promising.
DAY 2 : SATURDAY 22 JANUARY 2011
Slept really well. Very quiet room and hotel, hardly surprising really with just three guests!
The sound of the plow, a beautiful scraping noise to wake up to. Men talking, shouting beneath my window. The light gradually beating the battle against the dark. The snow falling steadily and softly, straight down. Each shovel stroke moving medicine ball size cakes of light snow.
Met four different guys (staff) this morning. All friendly, all said good morning with a smile. Eastern European lack of service a myth for me.
The music in the dining room took me back:
Back on the Chain Gang - Pretenders
Luka - Suzanne Vega
Strong Procession of Love and Hate
Everybody - Blues Brothers
slavic rap a la Linkin Park
Breakfast today was black coffee, goats's cheese, boiled egg, two sausages, white bread, butter, marmalade, honey.
Chatted over breakfast with Joe and Erin. She originally from Connecticut. Both working for Deloite. He privatising energy company. She getting Kosovans to pay taxes.
Erin is also a writer. Her latest project on the Hormel "Spam" family. Very interesting.
Walked down to the t-bar and skied a couple of runs with Joe and Erin.
Day pass 800 MCD (approx. 13,5 euros)
Not much visibility. Snowed lightly throughout the day with fog rolling in every so often.
The base was old snow and submerged foliage with the odd rock thrown in for good measure. And yes I was thrown a good few times. Where the new snow had settled on a good base the skiing was great. 20-40cm of light powder depending on aspect and wind transport.
Some good terrain with a very accommodating pitch.
By day's end it was chopped and hardening crud where people had been skiing.
Met up with and skied with Vihren from the TGR forum and his three Bulgarian friends (viktor, Aleko) and a couple of Macedonian lads.
I was 1 of only 6 who were allowed to the top of the mountain today courtesy of Rasho from Skopje and his connections. It's who you know, not what you know.
Pretty ropey up there though. Like skiing inside a golf ball.
Great company and a great day.
Finally got my first day on the new gear.
Was most recently skiing Full Tilt Bumblebee Pro boots on 173cm Blizzard Titan Cronus (123-88-115).
Changed to Dynafit TLT-5 Performance boots, and Dynafit FT12 bindings mounted on 173cm Movement Jams (136-85-117).
One word. AMAZING
Best first day in new boots by a country mile.
Stiff as I need and better performance than my Full Tilts.
Felt like I could turn on a sixpence. Pivotting was a dream. So too laying the skis on edge and carving on-piste.
No blisters or skin rub. One hot spot on my right foot on the top most part of the arch. Easily rectified once I can get the liners sorted.
It was about -2 C and this is the least my feet have sweated in any boot. Normally soaked by days end. These liners felt a little damp and that's it.
Also love the upright cuff. Suits my skiing style.
The walk to and from the lifts was a breeze. Thank you Dynafit. Highly recommended.
Movement Skis were excellent. Light, turny.
Spent the evening at the Hotel Konak with Joe, Erin and the Bulgarian boys eating pork chops and drinking home made wine and raijki. Great night.
