Wake Up
I don't know what made me look up from the blur of the TV while I mindlessly doodled in my sketch-book. I think it was the flash of a skateboarder that flew past my window. He was almost glowing. "Damn it's awful bright out tonight," I thought to myself. Full Moon. Like a cold-water wake-up I jumped out of my couch, grabbed my dog and skateboard.
Gray Water
I think my dog even knew where I was going and what I was planning to do. He could feel the excitement. He raced ahead of me, pulling so hard I didn't even have to push. I look up to the moon and the crystal-clear black night. "Can't get much better than this." As I approached the cliff, I saw the small avalanches of gray water rolling through the moonlight. I glanced down to my watch, 11:48. I immediately know that was gonna be a fun night. And if not fun, it would be at least adventurous.
First Time
The sunset-session still lingerd within my 4-3 wetsuit and booties, they were sopping wet and icy cold. A good 5-6 foot North had finally cleaned up after the first winter storms rolled through Santa Cruz. And no sooner than the choppy water flattened, the crowds ransacked every break around. A moderately succesfull but completely overcrowded session at my secret home spot had left me dejected. But now it's gonna be good. Besides, this is my first time night-session ever. Between the frenzy of throwing on an icy cold wetsuit and yelping like I girl as my little boys shrivled, I called my buddies. None of them wanted to come. Fuck that, I'll sleep when I'm dead.
Black Mountains
The water was as cold as it was black. Seeing your breath on an Tahoe morning is pleasing, seeing it as you're about to paddle out is disconserting. I eased my way down the mossy rocks and into the swirling water. I couldn't tell if I was shivering from the cold or from watching the sets, like black mountains, roll in and out of the moonlight. I jumped on my board and started the paddle out. I've surfed the point a million times and still didn't know exactly where I was. My heart was practically bouncing of the fiberglass. As I reached what I assumed to be the bowl of First Peak I notice two other blackened figures in the lineup. I'd have to say it was a little comforting to see someone else out.
Sewer Monsters
For about 20 minutes I paddled, struggled and slowly got used to the depth perception and surfing by braile. The waves jump out of nowhere. It's as if a monster jumped out of sewer drain about 4 feet in front of you. After a couple of missed waves while trying finding the sweet spot of the bowl, the two others left. Now it was me, the Moon, Orion and that meteor that just flashed by. The sensations of riding a wave at night are nearly impossible to put into words. The speeds seem faster, the waves steeper, the turns better. It's almost a whole different sport than surfing during the day.
Mercury Barrels
If getting barreled is the ultimate in surfing, getting barreled at night is must be considered godly. The north swell was connecting perfectly. I raced from First Peak through the second bowl. The developed instinct of wave riding and faint reflection of the yellow street lights showed what looked like a wall of water that was about to barrel. I pull to the top of the wave, center on the board, ducked under the lip and was immediately surrounded by a mercury barrel. The blackness surrounded me, the distant lights of Capitola and the stars enlightened were the only hint of light coming through the hole of the tube. I continued to pull high, ducked lower and then I shot out of the flowing dark barrell.
Onomatopoeia Motherfucker
"YAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHH!" My hollar breaks the relative calm of the midnight surf. No one heard me. And that was what made it even more epic. I frantically paddled back out for more. I was getting wave after wave. The darkness didn't even seem to effect me anymore. I almost forgot it was 1 in the morning. I got a good 6 foot set wave and pulled into an stand-up close-out barrel. I got a 5 footer that I raced, got barelled again, came out and rode all the way from First peak to 38th (about quarter mile). Not only was this a fucking epic night session it was one of the best sessions of my life. Black barrels, mountains rising out of nothingness and long fast rides that rival most sessions during the day time. I had the place to myself and was getting some of the best waves of my life. I can't stop smiling, about this. It's now 3 am and I'm still amping from this session. God I'm almost ready to paddle back out. Good night. And I'm heading back out tomorrow night.
