self jonging myself here
i'm not sure I get the mechanics of how this works
crayon wax onto ski
buff in with cork
scrape? brush?
go ski
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self jonging myself here
i'm not sure I get the mechanics of how this works
crayon wax onto ski
buff in with cork
scrape? brush?
go ski
brush. Depending on what you are using. I believe this is typically done on nordic skis before ironing, and with an additive (paste of flouro or teflon) after waxing and scraping downhill skis. That is my rather un-educated take on it.
Steps for waxing:
Bronze brush lightly to clean out base material
Brush bases with Fibertex/Scotchbrite to clean ptex/wax remants left by bronze brushing
Either drip wax onto the ski or rub it on and iron it in (I prefer to rub it on cold then iron it in because I'm cheap and I wax a shitload of skis)
Make sure to melt wax into the ski for 15-30 minutes of ironing.
Let wax cool for about an hour, then brush with a stiff nylon combi brush.
Only use a bronze one in the spring time as it makes you faster in wet snow but slows you down everywhere else.
Cold waxing alpine skis and corking them works for races, where you need the skis to fly for a run or two, tops, but other than that, it isn't very effective. The was wears off in 3 or 4 runs, leaving the skis slower and drier than when you started. IMHO, hot waxing and brushing are the only was to go with alpine skis.
thats pretty much what i have figured out. i got a free little rub-on wax with cork with some gear i bought. i was out of hot wax, so i basically just did a rub-on, buffed with cork, then went ski riding. it felt pretty good for the first few runs then seemed to have lost its glide after that.Quote:
Originally Posted by glademaster
good in a pinch, but hot wax is mo betta.
Tell me you don't stand there, rubbing an iron across your ski for 15-30 minutes.Quote:
Originally Posted by glademaster
Right?
6 miniutes to iron the wax in and 9-24 minutes to prepare the skis for warp speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by phUnk
corks are used for hard kick wax and in some cases special sauce glide waxes, mostly super high flouros for warm days
never scrape after applying cork on glide wax, because thats not how it works, and don't scrape off kick wax until you are done classic skiing. I suppose in a pinch you could crayon on some HF 8 and then cork it in then scrape but hf wax is hella hella expensive so it'd be a waste
A. What phUnk said. Hot box em if you must be don't iron for 15min.
B. The best way to save wax is to touch the wax block to the iron then rub the wax on the base instead of dripping it on.
That's a good way to get a wicked buzz...Quote:
Originally Posted by phUnk
One time in the high school race room my buddy coughed up something **blue**
On a related note: I'm pretty much certain I'm getting cancer.
Actually yes. Well for DH boards we used to. Opens up the pores of the skis to get the wax deeper and deeper. Wax JONG.Quote:
Originally Posted by phUnk
last saturday in a gym wich was a waxing area for a race it was absolutely hazy, I was so stoned after like 15 minutes in there :redface:
If you're not racing, then let the mountain be your cork.
Honestly, hot waxing is the only thing that works, but if your bases look dry, and you ain't got no iron or cork, try rubbing wax on without corking. The mountain quickly wears away the excess, leaving only whats in the pores.
Its better than not waxing at all.