im gonna check a good deal on one this week.
its a 1988, the one with the plastic top.
what should i look for when i go check it out.
i know its haven't been offroad in a while.
what are the problems with these models ?
Printable View
im gonna check a good deal on one this week.
its a 1988, the one with the plastic top.
what should i look for when i go check it out.
i know its haven't been offroad in a while.
what are the problems with these models ?
You may find some useful info. here, just keep scrolling unitl you find the right years (89 and before).
http://www.carreview.com/SUV/Toyota,...8_1524crx.aspx
A better one is: www.yotatech.com
Dude,
Depending on mileage and configuration there are some things to look out for.
If it's a 4-cylinder give it a few revs at idle and listen for a clattering buzzing noise. The timing chains on the 22-R four cylinder do go bad after a while, it'll start making noise rubbing against the case if it is soon to be replaced. Look for normal oil leaks: valve cover, distributor o-ring, crank seal.
If it is a 6 cylinder make sure the timing belt has been done recently, if in question do it. Make sure it hits on all six cylinders, these motors were notorious for head gasket leaks into the #6 hole. Ask them if they have ever had the head gasket replaced, (I would imagine so). Check for a leaking clutch flex hose on the back right corner of the motor (not a real expensive fix, but pretty common).
I can't quite remember if the 88's had the solid front axle? If so, check for outer driveshaft seal leaks. This will manifest itself as fluid seeping past the felts of the front turning knuckles.
When test driving it pay attention to any abnormal vibrations or noises.
These things were pretty good vehicles, fairly bulletproof.
Hope this helps,
BobMc
that is exactly what i wanted to know.
thanks dude
The rear window motors and rails and (scissors?) rust out and are expensive to fix. I had a 90 with the solid top but I think that talegate was the same. Sounds like BobMc knows a lot more than me and can confirm or deny the transfer case. Run it in 4 wheel and if you get a pretty good whine it's probably about done. If they ran it in 4 wheel on dry pavement a lot they'd chew it up.
Nice call L7, I had forgotten about that little quirk. Most of the time the problem with the tailgate window is the wiring. But as you brought up the rails do have a tendency to rust out.Quote:
Originally posted by L7
The rear window motors and rails and (scissors?) rust out and are expensive to fix. I had a 90 with the solid top but I think that talegate was the same.
I'm not sure what you mean about a transfer case whine. Low gear? Most of these old buggers will probably whine a bit, unless it is obviously excessive I wouldn't worry too much.
BobMc
Slight hijack
Is it the 22-R four cylinder or R20? That is notorious for longevity
the ubiquitous 4runner ass-sag. may need new springs in the rear.
The R22 & R20 are both 4 bangers. Great engines, but I wouldn't want one in the 4-Runner because the vehicle is so heavy.
The rear spring sag is a problem in the 2nd generation 4-Runners (90-95), but I don't know about the earlier one.
In Lo gear any transfer case will whine.
Transfer case whine more on the highway. Mostly I drove the 4x4 vans of that era but I think it was the same drive train. You'd be 2wd but it would still whine. It was a long time ago though.
i went to check it out, owner wasn't there though. there was defenetly a leakage, when i looked under all around the passenger side and the transmission were covered in a oil, but i couldn't see how much was leaking because there was leaves on the ground ? what could it be ?
back suspension is defenetly saggy. how do you fix that ?
from what i have seen of your automotive knowledge so far, you fix that by walking away and buying something different. Unless you are confident in auto repair (and actually even if you are confident), this thing could turn into a money pit.
Fez may be right. It will depend on how much has to be repaired. If the springs are sagging, you'll have to replace them, but that's not too expensive as there are plenty of aftermarket manufacturers. You may need a new set of shocks as well.
Was there rust on the vehicle?
You're not going to find out much until you start it up and go for a drive.
Other stuff- take off the radiator cap, is the radiator all gunky in side? Ditto with a oil cap, sometimes you can find sludge build-up and that's never a good sign. Check out the radiator core, are the fins coming apart? The core may be rotten. Do the plugs, wires, pcv valves apear to be in good shape? Running a car with worn-out components is not a very nice thing. How are the tires? If their worn, a new, decent set will cost $350-400. Look for leaking around the area of the waterpump.
i'm going to try it tonite. will keep posted and bring back pics, also got an apointment at the garage to get it checked out.
They changed to IFS after '85, I think to make room for the 6 banger.Quote:
Originally posted by BobMc
I can't quite remember if the 88's had the solid front axle? If so, check for outer driveshaft seal leaks. This will manifest itself as fluid seeping past the felts of the front turning knuckles.
Also, they quit making the 22R in '87, so if it's a 4 banger it'll be the 22RE, which is quite possible the most bomb proof engine ever made (weakest also, but that's what 4 low is for).
Rust is inevitable on these things, just be wary of rust on structural components.
Oh, typically it only took one topper removal to ensure that the fuckers leaked forever, so that might be something you'll have to deal with.
The leak could be from the tranny or it could be from the engine. Generally, engine oil is thin and filmy. Automatic Transmission Fluid is usually red and filmy. Manual transmissions use either ATF (red) or gear oil (which is thick and smells like hell). If the tranny is all gunked up and you can't tell where the leak is coming from much less what type of fluid it is, the only way to figure this out is to steam clean the engine and tranny, drive the vehicle and look for leaks. Sometimes engine oil leaks down the block and flows over the tranny when you're driving. The same can happen with tranny leaks. So while oil may be dripping in one place, that's not necessarily the source.Quote:
Originally posted by dude_le_skibum
i went to check it out, owner wasn't there though. there was defenetly a leakage, when i looked under all around the passenger side and the transmission were covered in a oil, but i couldn't see how much was leaking because there was leaves on the ground ? what could it be ?
back suspension is defenetly saggy. how do you fix that ?
Depeding on what's leaking and whether or not the owner paid attention to it, this could either be $ or $$$$$$. Be careful.
As for the suspension, you can take it to a spring shop and either have them rebuild the leaf pack or make you new springs.
The second gen. 4-Runner uses coil springs in the rear. This is why that series sags so much in the back. Don't know about the first gen runners.Quote:
Originally posted by Arty50
As for the suspension, you can take it to a spring shop and either have them rebuild the leaf pack or make you new springs.
That would require new coils then. A good spring shop should still be able to help out.
Or even better, find a junk yard with an low milage 4runner that someone totalled. Just don't remove/install the coils yourself! I guarantee you'll kill or seriously maim yourself. Really, I'm not kidding.
'88 has leaf in the rear. Cheap and easy fix.
i went and rode it.
suprised ! it ran good. the leakage comes from the powerstearing.
everything looks fine. the puppy started on a dime.
i went and floored it for half an hour, not much power in these trucks eh.
direction was tight.
i reved it to see. between 2000 at 2500 there was sorta of a little high sound of somethin metallish rubbin against something else...
and eh, when i was iddleing and i was switching gears i could feel that the transmission was sorta moving when i was popping them in 2nd and 3rd, but it didn't make any noise or rattle when i was switching gears
electric windows don't work, how much is that ?
back spring were done last year
brakes are ok.
guy is askin for 1500$
more opinions ?
Which engine does it have? 4 or 6?
God, I hate electric windows in trucks!! Depends on the problem. If none of them work, maybe just a single problem within the circuit that can be easily fix? I don't know.
It sounds like an okay deal, but I'll defer to BobMc and Arty. How much money will you have afterwards to fix these little problems.
You said your were going to take it to a mechanic. Maybe you could get an estimate of the costs of the most necessary repairs and negotiate that into the final deal.
Good luck.
its a 4.
after that i got like 750 left, that i wouldn't want to spend right away and would rather put in the bank,
my concerns are that little noise from the engine wich i don't know what it is ? and the tranny not popping, i used the wrong term , eh i was feeling feedback from a movement from the tranny in the stick shift, but no problem switching it into gears, popped right in
This is your best bet if you're serious about buying this thing.Quote:
Originally posted by Viva
You said your were going to take it to a mechanic. Maybe you could get an estimate of the costs of the most necessary repairs and negotiate that into the final deal.
Good luck.
Old toyotas, if they've been taken care of, have the potential to last forever at a minimal cost. $1500 could be a good deal or a ripoff, depends mostly on mileage (engine/tranny mileage specifically) and body/frame condition.
Whatever needs to be fixed, windows in particular, should be grounds for a price reduction on the part of the seller if you decide to buy.
Edit: feeling engine movement in the stick is not unusual, especially in trucks, unless it's excessive. If it is it's probably just worn engine mounts. As for the noise at 2000 rpm, that could be something as simple as a loose heat shield (or could be worse).
Make a list of things you notice and point them out to the mechanic when you have it checked out.
One thing I didn't mention but is well documented, they roll easy. I rolled mine. My one and only time in the ditch and it wasn't that bad of a ditch and I wasn't going that fast. I know others who have rolled them too. Thing about mine was I went in the ditch and could feel it and was shocked how easy and how little force it took to start it going. I didn't see how many kms it had but mine was also a 4 and those little engines have to work hard to pull that size truck. I sold mine at about 200k. It had started to loose compression in a couple of cylinders and I never towed anything or drove it loaded down.
I don't know about the electric windows but the electric tailgate window cost about $700 to replace a number of years ago and I had to do it twice. It didn't make me feel very good about toyota standing behind their product. It was my second toyota and it will also be my last.
truck wasn't that tight, the two ball joints in the front had to be changed, the rear break line was mounted badly, rust was worse then it look, the radiator was rotten, bumber was falling off, tires were cracked, couldn't even open the rear brake drums. owner dropped to 1000 $, i think i'm goin to pass.
thanks for the help though
i'm goin to check a isuzu rodeo tomorrow....