Nice southy filling in. Next few days should be fun. Lighter winds today as well. Not quite a gale out there. This morning at County Line was not boring with overhead sets and almost clean conditions.
http://cdip.ucsd.edu/models/conception.gif
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Nice southy filling in. Next few days should be fun. Lighter winds today as well. Not quite a gale out there. This morning at County Line was not boring with overhead sets and almost clean conditions.
http://cdip.ucsd.edu/models/conception.gif
you have no idea how it's going off down here!!! All we need is a some NW wind swell to peak it up a bit!! If I can get down there for some pics, the wedge is maxing at 25'
I should have taken heed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Joey Bag O' Donuts
Slept in a bit this morning. Was tired. Got up to GDs around 8:15. 5 at the peak, two down the way. Not super consistent, but super meaty. And clean. Suit up, hike down, winds come up, everyone bails. I head out anyway - fuck it.
Not to much bump once I am out there. Well over head. Double clearly on the sets and throwing. Hard. I grab my first from the shoulder, on my way out, under the pinch at the end of the outside bowl. It was fine on the inside, but I missed the best part. Decide I need to take off deep to get a good one. Just need to avoid the pinch.
Got a decent one. A foot overhead, through the outside, past the pinch. Got clipped on a big one - had to straighten out at the bottom. Got a few more. Each a bit better, bigger, more solid. Had a really sweet, long, grinding 4' overhead wave. Not really in the barrel, but right under the canopy snap to fast down the line carve sort of thing.
Pushing a bit on the 6'7". Should have brought more board. But fuck I wanted one of the big ones. And it came in. Stay aggressive I remind myself, paddling in, to slipping out to some sort of free fall followed quickly by pounding. Snapped leash.
Fuck. Swam in. Board is sitting calmly on the inside lagoon without a scratch. Called it for the morning.
Summer. Go figure.
Nice. Yeah, buddy calls me yesterday morning telling me it's not that big. Take the fish. I head down to 3 mile, killing time till low tide. Paddle out, exhausted from the 9-day work week. Much bigger, much cleaner and much juicier than it looked from the cliff. Small one comes through, paddle, then pull off as it mushes out. Double overhead+ set coming in, I'm deep and inside. Get worked, then worked again by the next 3 waves. Literally opened my eyes and couldn't see the light. Head in to the beach, two snapped boards and one gun with a ripped out fin plug. Brought the knife to the gun fight, and paid for it big time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
hahaha siiiick.