hOLY HeLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL

jesus jehosephat. what the fuck am I dealing with here? 70-200 2.8L.

first off...the things a friggin' cannon. but FKNA.....

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1.../IMG_0486a.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...IMG_0489aa.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...MG_0489aaa.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...8/IMG_0490.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...IMG_0490aa.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...8/IMG_0270.jpg

makes me feel like.... :biggrin:
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1.../IMG_0371a.jpg


not all were winners though...

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...8/IMG_0497.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...8/IMG_0390.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...8/IMG_0365.jpg

Shooting something like waterskiing seems easier as the distance never changes.

C&C appreciated.

FKNA
I havent done that shit in a while!
might have to try behind my bro inlaws new boat this week

Nice FKN shots too.

You seem to be struggling with focus. Most of the images were a bit soft, some very soft. Many of them had the background in focus rather than the subject. What focus mode were you using? Shutter speed is slow for most of the images. The one image shot at 1/1250 freezes the water nicely. Don't shoot auto. Learn to shoot full Manual. Work on pre focusing on the skier's face in AI Servo mode. Once you have a lock keep the shutter pressed 1/2 way down and shoot you series. At that distance you probably could have shot it wide open at f/2.8 and dropped you ISO to 400 while keeping the 1/1000 or so shutter speed you needed to freeze the water.

shutter seems fine to me and its preference anyway
i personally dont like images that are portraying movement that are locked frozen...nor do i like blurry ones
ill agree though that the focal plane is a bit off and behind the skier.

shooting full manual seems overkill here.
id probably shoot closer to ~F8 to help with your focus on a moving object but still not to provide too much definition to the bg
there was still plenty of light out to shoot at ~1/500+

I also really dont see a need to shoot with the autofocus on.
manual focus once, use your insurance from the dof from a slightly higher f-stop, and you should be good to go, especially if you're shotting at specific points in the turn (which are about the same distance every time)

otherwise, looking good
nice to see you enjoying the camera :)

Focus mode was AI Focus. now I know what the problem was....I pre-focused on the water where the turn was going to be and waited for Rick to begin, initiate, and finish the turn ...and started clicking when he came into view...So I was focused on the water behind him at the time of capture. duh.

Have you gotten good results from the AI Focus?

I'm also struggling with using the higher ISO's. I "think" I want to be down in 100-250 for action and truth is, my best results have been ISO 400+.

and where did you find the exif data in my pictures? It'd be helpful not to have to post it manually, but it's crucial to dissecting a good shot.

kthxbai

I would suggest using auto focus to get whatever you want in focus, then switch the lens to manual so it wont change. The skier will always be the same distance from the camera so you can snap a picture anywhere and have it be focused.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mavrick

I would suggest using auto focus to get whatever you want in focus, then switch the lens to manual so it wont change. The skier will always be the same distance from the camera so you can snap a picture anywhere and have it be focused.

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agreed. will try that this weekend.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mavrick

I would suggest using auto focus to get whatever you want in focus, then switch the lens to manual so it wont change. The skier will always be the same distance from the camera so you can snap a picture anywhere and have it be focused.

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Eh, I disagree. imo you are better off using constant-cervo ( 'C' on Nikon). You are bound to see some softness relying on set-distance manual focus, esp when shooting subjects that are very dynamic; i.e. watersports. The C setting is great at nailing the focus even on my 5 year old d2h.

Use the spot focus selector and set it to the center dot, then track the subject with servo.

I think.

i laugh at the hypocrisy from people in general demanding to shoot in manual 100% of the time or its not "real photography" and then also suggest using AF as a crutch.

How much is your subject distance changing as they swing around? 5 feet? maybe 10 feet max? You should be able to get good focus in any of the ways people have listed here including using single focus a split second before the image that you are looking for. I personally don't like the "tracking" or "predictive" autofocus much but that's just me.

I would shoot manual exposure for this especially if you are zooming in and out to change composition. I don't think of auto exposure is a "crutch" but for me it creates more problems than it solves in situations like this.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pechelman

i laugh at the hypocrisy from people in general demanding to shoot in manual 100% of the time or its not "real photography" and then also suggest using AF as a crutch.

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Errrr... what are you talking about?

I didn't see any comments above about "real photography" and I've never gotten than vibe from this forum at all. I don't shoot manual exposure to be "real" I shoot it because it works for a lot of what I shoot.

im talking about some other discussions ive had on this board in other threads
that why i said "people in general" and not really relating it to this thread

well, i for one don't have a great focusing screen in my 40D, and based on experience, autofocus provides a sharper focus nearly every time than manual, especially for moving objects. I almost always shoot full manual w/ autofocus. Not because it is "real photography" but because it works.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pechelman

i laugh at the hypocrisy from people in general demanding to shoot in manual 100% of the time or its not "real photography" and then also suggest using AF as a crutch.

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Shooting M all the time is just easier for me. The only times I use a "mode" is if I'm panning or tracking a subject from light to dark or vice versa. I'll only turn AF off if I can't get a good lock. I could give a rats ass how anyone else chooses to shoot but I do believe that you can get better images shooting manual versus one of the priority modes once you develop the knowledge of the controls.

The "mode" I'd really like is one where I set the shutter and app and let the camera choose the ISO needed. That would be a big given the menu layout of my camera.

I like shooting shutter priority for sports, and run the iso as low as I can. Unless you are getting artsy the proc will help maintain a good exposure level. I think the auto-focus mode is helpful, what if something un-expected happens? It would take to long to re-focus otherwise.

I wouldn't take it off autofocus, unless your shooting wakeboarding. I feel like water skiiers move too much, coming closer and further from the boat. Plus it's hard to get good crash pictures shooting manual AF/fixed focus - which at our level, is pretty much the most exciting pictures. I shoot servo or single point (middle). I would recommend avoiding shooting wide open, that's giving you a super narrow DOF, especially shooting at 200mm.

-Damon