Crap. Another addiction.

I wasn't sure about it before, but after spending 3 weeks in Hawaii for work, I know now. I am definitely going to be doing more surfing. I even managed to be on Oahu the end of last week when that southern swell came in and made for some pretty serious waves, at least for that time of the year. I couldn't believe when I heard the surf report and they were saying 6-8' in the south. I never quite got up the cojones to paddle out to the outermost break where there were definitely some big ones rolling in, but I'm super-stoked that I got to catch some in the 4-5' variety. And I managed to not get in anyone's way, so no haole beatdowns either. I even made my first kinda-sorta bottom turn. Kinda like making that first carved turn on skis, you realize that wow, this is pretty cool.
:yourock:

Welcome to the fold dear friend! I once heard somebody say "skiing has ruined my life, but it was worth it." Fear not, the same applies for surfing, perhaps even more so.

I know what you mean...caught my 1st waves a few weeks ago in San Deigo. Crap, another addition.