Bootpacking at Silverton last fall was hard, hard work. On the first day the chair was on wind hold. The parade of skiers hiking up the lift line warmed the heart at least. Mostly local people, but a few of us came from here and there for the honor of tromping down the couloirs we had skied in deep powder the year before. The snow was already deep, about a foot of fluff on top of a two inch slab covering a couple of feet of hoar. The stuff that slides are made of. Crotch deep when you're stomping it down. Fan out with your crew and step hard because it's important to break all the way down through the crust. Extract your leg from the hole and do it again. Keep those skis high on your back so they won't trip you up. Finally get down to the aprons and put on the skis for some very sweet, well earned face shots.
Two days of rewarding labor, especially for a backcountry skier. A hell of a workout, powder turns, the chance to meet many like-minded people, and a day of guided skiing later on, all for the purpose of making those sweet steep pitches safe for the season. Participating in the workings of the most amazing ski area in the country is a priviledge not to be missed, if you're up to the challenge. Silverton is truly a mountain of challenges and rewards for anyone that loves skiing in the west. The San Juan mountains satisfy the eye and the heart in a way no other place can. And Silverton is the centerpiece, bridging the gap between the inbounds skiing offered at Telluride and the backcountry lines that stretch out in every direction as far as the eye can see.
Coming back to Silverton in the springtime to cash in on the bootpacking days brought back fond memories of winter days of deep fluff and nights in a sleepy little mountain town, peopled with a skeleton population of local folks and visiting skiers. Skiers that come for the skiing, not the shopping. The shops are closed, boarded up for the winter, the owners and their tourist customers having gone to Arizona for the joys of RV life. Only the essential remains - warm beds at off season rates, really good food at the handful of restaurants that stay open, and a bar with a very comfy sofa and some mellow dogs. The hot springs down the road at Ouray and Ridgeway rekindle the fires within at the end of a big day.
Everyone you meet is a skier in the truest sense of the word, there for powder turns on steep pitches. Powder snow is the drug that builds you up instead of tearing you down and Silverton's owners, Jenny and Aaron Brill are the dealers with their mountain providing the fix. Not the tease of the powder run that comes in the first hour at a regular area. And not the short vert and low angle pitches of so many snowcat operations. At Silverton you get as much as you can handle and then some. For inbounds and backcountry skiers, the chance to ski powder all day long with a lift assist of 2000 feet is truly unique. Top to bottom sustained steeps and a lot of snow all winter guarantee good times. The avalanche blasting, bootpacking, and safe travel protocols provide peace of mind in mountains that can be as dangerous as they are beautiful.
Getting the most out of a day at Silverton means getting the most from yourself. Personal fitness and acclimatization to the high altitude go a long way. A month of solid workouts before a trip and then a couple of days of activity at elevation such as skiing inbounds or snowshoeing provide an edge. And bring your fat skis - they are mandatory on western steeps. Fortunately the area can hook you up with some Big Stix 106 skis that turn on a dime and provide the stability and float you'll want to charge down the mountain. Jen and Aaron will sort you into groups based on your skiing and hiking experience and hustle you out the door by 9:30 am, a tall order when you've got 80 people to gear up with beacon, shovel, probe, and crash course in snow safety. So come early and come rested and fed. If you do your part, you'll be rewarded with thousands of feet of the precious steep and deep. As much as you can handle.
You'll also want to bring a good attitude. Backcountry skiers learn very quickly that patience and a happy smile make all the difference in the mountains. Silverton may deliver a lunch, but you need to provide the comraderie. Whether you come with your own crew or are looking forward to skiing with new friends, the way you deal with the various challenges you will surely encounter should leave you proud of yourself. The Silverton guides are wonderful role models and following their leadership is straightforward. They set the standard for the hiking you'll do after the chair gets you past 12,000 feet. They set the standard for turns down the mountain, many of them making deep dropped knee telemark turns that leave you awestruck with their grace, beauty, and strength. But most of all they set the standard for having fun, making the most of the unique and special time you will have if your mind is open to it. Buying them a beer at the bar and slipping them a $20 doesn't seem enough at the end of the day, but it is a pleasure to have the chance to give something back to these amazing skiers.
Silverton has become an integral part of my life as a skier and I'll be back there every year. I'm not worried about whether I come early or late in the season or when the last snow fell, because I'm confident that I'll find what I'm looking for. Terrain, snow, physical challenge, and good vibes. No frills, all thrills. After hiking a few days for corn turns in the San Juans, going to Silverton last Sunday was a suiting finale. Even with the chair ride, three runs was all these legs could manage. Three runs of high altitude edgeable chalk, then silky corn on the sunny sides and creamy powder on the north exposure. Great stuff. The area is closing its winter operations this coming weekend and going back is so tempting. Steak cookoff, microbrew fest, music, and a snowpack that still covers the mountain top to bottom just can't be beat. Skiing corn or powder is the only question, to be answered by mother nature. A bikini or a down jacket? Maybe some of both. ;)
