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Just got new Scarpa Tornado Pros (thanks to Wilderness Exchange for having low prices, molding skillz and cool staff).
The shell on the Tornado's is 298mm, 7 shorter than my old boots at 305. The new boots can close the binding and everything looks tight but I'm sure the DIN would not be accurate with smaller boots.
Question to the always helpful TGR community: How do I make this small adjustment to fit my new boots?
You're not looking at DIN. It should stay the same. Search 'forward pressure'. 7mm is a pretty huge difference, which will necessitate moving the heel forward.
So you got new boots, but you didn't move the binding at all? First you're going to need to get the right forward pressure (and tell us what binding you have). The official shop din chart says that a smaller boot gets a higher din, but I would just leave the din where it is and ski on them a day or two and then adjust the din depending on how (or if) they release.
edit: nevermind.
Smaller boot = higher DIN. I know it can sound weird but it's right. Salomon bindings move up about 1/2 a DIN value every 20mm...ish.Quote:
Originally Posted by GapersGoHome
The bindings are last year's Salomon z12 and I got them riding at a 9 DIN right now. The heel of the boot fits but you can clearly see the bindings are a little too big.
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/IMGP3584.jpg
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/IMGP3586.jpg
The boots will close the bindings but again you can see it's a little loosey goosey.
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/IMGP3588.jpg
The heel binding have enough room to slide forward without having to redrill but I'm unsure of the procedure and how to ensure a proper, safe setting.
I'm starting to get an itchy screwdriver hand but I'm hoping somebody will shine some insight on here before I attempt it on my own assumptions.
so sexy...
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...7/IMGP3589.jpg
ill reiterate this because its fresh on my mind as it recently happened to me
smaller boots need a higher din
bump it up at least half a din point for a 7mm bsl change.
id reference a din chart as well.
previously with my 314mm id stay in all the time at 7, but couldnt stay in my skis with the same bindings at 306mm.
Gapersgohome is right, it's not a DIN adjustment you need, you have to set the forward pressure to accomodate the new boots. If you don't know the difference here, you'd probably be better off taking these to a shop.
If you're set on doing it yourself (it's easy), http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=40192
Check out the shop manual if it's not clear.
edit: You might have to change your DIN a bit too, as pechelman stated.
this is the link wildstyle posted back in the olden days of 2005. very good stuff and thanks to all replys
http://www.salomoncertification.com/...SPM_06_web.pdf (9.32Mb)
Make sure you study the manual long and hard. If you read it wrong , it can be your worst enemy.
* Pay attention to the Din Chart when it comes to Boot Sole length. (The lateral release force changes with the length of the lever.). Its better to put it at the standard din and see how you get on than to go straight to 11 coz your friends told you too. Work it out rather than cranking it straight up.
* Forward pressure marker on those ones can be a bit vague. make sure the triangle is in the gate. Try a step more up or down to be sure. If its not in the gate, its not safe. This is the reason why the worm screw is better than the Tab adjustment you get with the 912's
* When you adjust the toe wings, do NOT overtighten. finger force tight, not wrist tight.All they should be doing is holding the boot straight in the binding,nothing more. If you overtighten the toe wings, the front of the boot will pushed backwards putting excess pressure on the side screws and they will start to self loosen as you ski.
* Do not overtighten the Toe height adjuster.If you overtighten it, the boot will not release properly in a crash.
Unscrew the toe a few turns. put the boot in. pull back on the top back part of the boot to make sure the toe wedge is up against the wings on both sides. Put a business card/credit card on top of the AFD slidey bits on the toepiece and slowly tighten the top screw until the gap disappears and then extract the card, should be a little tough to extract the card. A minute gap is what you want.
If you have any questions or are unsure about anything , pm me or take it to a shop.
You only one set of knees, don't mess em up.
Good luck.