BC Backcountry Lodge Review

[Arctos Guides]

A candid BC Backcountry Ski Touring lodge review.

There are lots of trip reports about backcountry lodge trips in BC you can check out online, but there aren't many comprehensive backcountry lodge reviews to be found. Eventually, I'd like to visit most of the lodges in BC as many of them are well positioned for a week of ski touring. However they all are different and each offer their own particular flavour.

Over the years, I’ve had the pleasure of working at numerous backcountry ski touring lodges in British Columbia. This BC backcountry lodge review aims to give you an idea of the terrain, the level of comfort at the lodges and the overall experience I’ve had at the respective lodges I’ve visited.
Lodges are listed in alphabetical order. Scoring is 1-5.

BACKCOUNTRY SKI TOURING LODGE REVIEW

Burnie Glacier Chalet


The Burnie Glacier Chalet is perched on the east side of the Howson Range, southwest of Smithers, BC. The lodge sleeps 10 guests two guides and a cook. Smaller sized groups and smaller guest to guide ratios are one of the perks about this lodge. The terrain is also incredible- big glaciated terrain with ample opportunities to do really nice circuits is a highlight. The lodge has a fantastic sauna, private rooms and running water. The toilets are well designed outhouses which are a short walk from the lodge.
Overall Score
Accommodations 5
Terrain 5
Value 5

Golden Alpine Holidays

Meadow Lodge
Situated at treeline (2200m) in the heart of the Esplanade Range, the Meadow Hut is well positioned for a mix of storm skiing and alpine adventure.
The lodge doesn’t have wifi and is a bit on the rustic side, as there are no comfy couches, just a large table and private rooms—but hey, what more do you need? The kitchen is well appointed and the overall layout of the lodge is well thought out. You’ll also have to haul your water. There’s a drying room with plenty of space and the main part of the lodge is heated with wood. It also comes with a caretaker to keep the lodge on the up and up, so you can focus on the skiing and splitboarding. Guests clean off in a wood fired sauna and use outhouses for answering nature’s call.
There are a couple of downsides to Meadow. The first is that most of the storm skiing is down valley and there is significant exposure to overhead hazard on your way back to the lodge. The second is stronger groups may run out of terrain over the course of a week.
Overall Score
Accommodations 3.5
Terrain 3.5
Value 4
Cupola Mountain above Meadow LodgeSentry Lodge
Sentry Lodge is Golden Alpine Holidays’ flagship. It has the most terrain and the nicest accommodations of all the GAH lodges. Placed at treeline, it is easy to tour out the door in any conditions. Sentry features flush toilets, hot showers, running water, a spacious living room, private rooms, a dining area, a stretching space, wifi and a wood fired sauna. The terrain at Sentry is expansive and offers both storm skiing and alpine adventure. You won’t run out of terrain over the course of your week.
A caretaker is also included in the package so you can focus on the riding. There aren’t many downsides to Sentry Lodge except for the lack of glaciated terrain, thus if your seeking out big glaciated alpine terrain, this isn’t the lodge for you.
Overall Score
Accommodations 5
Terrain 4
Value 4.5
Esplanade Powder
Icefall LodgeIf you’re looking for big glaciated alpine terrain in the Canadian Rockies, look not further, Icefall Lodge is it. You’ll feel small at Icefall, very small.
The lodge is big and well thought out. However it is definitely on the rustic side—the cool part is a fair bit of the material was sourced from trees onsite. The lodge is powered by micro hydro and there are private rooms, plenty of space, outhouses, stretching areas and a sizeable kitchen/dining area, which also doubles as the hangout zone. The drying room is substantial with a separate boot/clothes drying room.
The downside to Icefall is the severity of its terrain. If you happen to go there during a significant storm cycle, you will feel hemmed in due to exposure to complex avalanche terrain. The lodge is also built to house large groups, so if you’re looking for a small group experience, be ready to ante up for a large per person cost or look for another lodge.
A new feature Icefall has added is the Icefall Traverse, a hut to hut horseshoe that takes you through some amazing terrain. The tour starts at the Mons Hut and travels across the Lyell Icefield to the Alexandra Cabin, up and over a col to Icefall Lodge and then onto the Rostrum Cabin.
Inside and outside the Lyell Hut
It’s an amazing trip, I guided two trips last year and really enjoyed it. There are some operational pressures, as groups start every day; last year Icefall ran 19 trips back to back. Thus there is no waiting out a storm option to move when it clears up. That’s a bit of a bummer as groups may have to skip going to the Alexandra Cabin if the weather doesn’t cooperate. Last spring was quite stormy and we did most of the trip in a whiteout both times.

Overall Score
Accommodations 4
Terrain 5 (good stability) 2.5 (poor stability)
Value 4
Topping out on Mt. Kemmel

Ice Creek Lodge

Positioned just outside of Valhalla Provincial Park at 1860m, Ice Creek Lodge is in some of the biggest terrain the Kootenays have to offer. Its still the Kootenays though, so the early season snowpack is thin (mid January) and by March you can expect elevated freezing levels and variable conditions. The good thing is the home drainage has primarily north aspect terrain.
The lodge is set up for eight to ten close friends. It’s rustic, bunkhouse style living, with a dormitory sleeping loft and limited hangout space. The main lodge is heated with a wood stove and there is a small drying room that serves as the entryway to the lodge. There’s intermittent, limited, slow wifi, running water at a hand wash station, a rustic bucket shower, outhouses and a rustic wood fired sauna.
There’s plenty of alpine terrain to keep a strong group with good stability busy. However there’s limited amounts of tree skiing and storm skiing. The Valhallas are also a bit short on glaciated terrain, so if you’re seeking out big glaciated terrain, you’ll want to look elsewhere. The price of this lodge is similar to lodges with much nicer accommodations and similar terrain.
Overall Score
Accommodations 3
Terrain 4
Value 3.5
Valhalla Powder

[Arctos Guides]

Purcell Mountain Lodge

Located on the Eastern boundary of Glacier National Park, Purcell Mountain Lodge provides guests with unparalleled views of Mt Sir Donald. It’s lodge is super plush too, with private rooms, wifi, running water, showers, sauna, a nice dining and living room area. There’s also a drying room and a smaller lodge for smaller groups. Lots of emphasis on comfort at PML.
The skiing is quite mellow and the terrain is suitable for nordic skiers and snowshoers too. Stronger groups can access bigger terrain, but it is a long walk to get there. PML is a great place to go if you’re looking for a soft entrance into backcountry lodge trips. They also offer three, four and seven day trips.
Overall Score
Accommodations 5
Terrain 3
Value 4


Sol Mountain Lodge

You won’t find nicer hosts. Aaron and Sabine Cooperman started this family business in the early 2000’s and have been full steam ahead ever since. Sol is a year-round full service backcountry lodge that offers skiing and splitboarding in the winter and hiking and mountain biking in the summer.
The lodge is situated at approximately 1900m in the Southern Monashees, an area know for prolific snowfalls. Height of snow in April has been measured at over five meters. The lodge is super comfortable with private rooms, flush toilets, hot showers, plenty of hang out space, dining area, a drying room, stretching space, wifi and a wood fired sauna. The lodge is set up to house a large group or multiple small groups with multiple guides. If you’re looking for a lodge to transition into backcountry lodge life, Sol makes for a nice starting point with approachable terrain and the all the comforts of home.
It does lack big alpine terrain, so if that’s what you’re after, you should look elsewhere. However Sol offers lots of different aspects to ski and excellent Monashee powder skiing. The tree skiing is all time! At times you’ll find yourself walking on the flats to get to the different zones. Sol also runs shorter trips, so if you don’t have a full week for a lodge trip it’s a great option.
Overall Score
Accommodations 5
Terrain 3.5
Value 4.5


Selkirk LodgePerched on a ridge at treeline, Selkirk Lodge faces the Justice glacier. Honestly, its one of the nicest backcountry lodges out there. The systems are dialed, the Devine’s are incredible hosts and the terrain is great.
It does share terrain with Selkirk Tangiers Heliskiing, so there is helicopter traffic in the area. If you go in April, Tangiers is closed and the snowpack has had a chance to settle out, making for better travel conditions. One of the fun aspects about Selkirk Lodge is the variety of loop tours you can do. The terrain is huge too, which adds an amazing element to this lodge. A week of storm skiing or high hazard would be challenging at Selkirk Lodge as a lot of its prime terrain is the expansive alpine surrounding the lodge.
Overall Score
Accommodations 5
Terrain 5
Value 5


Sorcerer LodgeLocated at treeline in the Northern Selkirks, Sorcerer Lodge has some great terrain. However the biggest downside is that it share’s its tenure with Great Canadian Heli Skiing. Not only will you see and hear helicopters and heli skiers, but you’ll also share runs such as the Perfect Glacier with them.
The lodge itself is reasonably comfortable with a new addition last year, a sauna private rooms and dinning and hangout space. There’s also a drying room and outhouses. It can sleep nearly 18 guests, so it’s not the place for those who are seeking a small group experience.
The upside is it has some expansive glaciated terrain, avalanche path skiing, some storm skiing directly below the hut, numerous drainages and aspects to explore. Ventigo Creek is also a bit of a cooler, thus you can find great skiing at Sorcerer well into late April.
While Great Canadian Heli Skiing is operating, the serenity most backcountry lodge guests seek is adversely affected; thus if you’re looking for a quote backcountry lodge experience at Sorcerer, picking a week in April after Great Canadian Heli Skiing is closed is your best option.
Overall Score
Accommodations 4
Terrain 4.75 (2.5 when Great Canadian is operating near by.)
Value 4

[Arctos Guides]

Valkyr Adventures

Hilda HutPerched at 1900m in the Valkyr Range in the Southern Selkirks, Hilda Hut provides guests with great mid-winter skiing. It’s also quite comfortable. The cedar log chalet design is well laid out with private rooms and plenty of hangout space. Hilda Hut has a wood fired sauna, running water, hot showers, flush toilets, wifi (available with an additional charge) a drying room, a comfortable dining area and nice couches. The terrain at Hilda is great, there are multiple drainages to explore with a nice mix of Kootenay alpine, tree skiing and avalanche paths. During a storm cycle you can feel a bit hemmed in if you can’t make it out of the home drainage. Situated in the Kootenays it can suffer from a thin early season snowpack, elevated freezing levels and an abbreviated season. By early March it looses a lot of the epic powder skiing runs due to aspect orientation and latitude. It is also devoid of glaciated terrain. In terms of mid-winter pow smashing venues, it’s hard to beat.
Overall ScoreAccommodations 5Terrain 4Value 4.5LQ OutpostThe LQ Outpost is located at a treeline pass in the Valkyr Range. It has some of the best lodge based tree skiing in the Kootenays. It’s also quite comfortable with running water, hot showers, flush toilets, a sauna, private rooms plenty of drying space, a large living room, dinner table and wifi (available with an additional charge). There are also numerous drainages to explore, however you need good stability to access the western half of the tenure. Keep in mind the LQ Outpost is located in the Kootenays and can suffer from a thin early season snowpack, elevated freezing levels and an abbreviated season. By early March it looses a lot of the epic powder skiing runs due to aspect orientation and latitude. It is also devoid of glaciated terrain. In terms of mid-winter pow smashing venues, it’s hard to beat.
Overall ScoreAccommodations 5Terrain 4Value 4.5Namulten LodgeNamulten Lodge was the first of the three Valkyr lodges and is the western most lodge in the Valkyr Range. It’s a similar design to the other two and is quite comfortable and features with running water, hot showers, flush toilets, a sauna, private rooms plenty of drying space, a large living room, dinner table and wifi (available with an additional charge). There are also numerous drainages to explore, however the terrain is for the most part, quite mellow. You also have to walk a long way to get to the better skiing/bigger terrain. It’s located in the Kootenays and can suffer from a thin early season snowpack, elevated freezing levels and an abbreviated season. By early March it looses a lot of the epic powder skiing runs due to aspect orientation and latitude. It is also devoid of glaciated terrain. Namulten Lodge is a great place for those who seek a comfortable backcountry lodge experience in a beautiful setting with mellow terrain.
Overall Score
Accommodations 5Terrain 3.5Value 4

Valhalla Mountain Touring

Located in the Ruby Range at the north End of the Valhallas, Valhalla Mountain Touring provides a comfortable ski and splitboard experience. The terrain is typical Kootenay terrain with a mix of alpine, treeline and below treeline skiing and riding. It has a variety of drainages and aspects to explore. It’s located in the Kootenays and can suffer from a thin early season snowpack, elevated freezing levels and an abbreviated season. By early March it looses a lot of the powder runs due to aspect orientation and latitude. It is also devoid of glaciated terrain. The lodge is quite comfortable with a wood fired sauna, running water, hot showers, flush toilets, wifi, a drying room, a comfortable dining area and nice couches. It is a large group experience with up to fourteen guests per week. One of the bonuses of VMT is that is is accessed by a snow cat, so you don’t have to pack light.
Overall Score Accommodations 5Terrain 3.75Value 4Thanks for reading our BC Backcountry Lodge Review. Please feel free to drop a line about all things backcountry.

[m2711c]

nice work

[yeahman]

Wow, this is really interesting. Thanks.

[fleaches]

This is super useful, thank you!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

[garyfromterrace]

While a guide to backcountry lodges is welcome, a bunch of "subjective reviews" by a guide who commercially guides out of these lodges sounds a lot like advertising to me.

I appreciate stoke and providing information for folks, don't get me wrong. But, caveat your reviews by letting people know these are lodges that you (and your fellow guides) provide paid guiding services.

[LeeLau]

While a guide to backcountry lodges is welcome, a bunch of "subjective reviews" by a guide who commercially guides out of these lodges sounds a lot like advertising to me.

I appreciate stoke and providing information for folks, don't get me wrong. But, caveat your reviews by letting people know these are lodges that you (and your fellow guides) provide paid guiding services.

I get the hesitation BUT I've been to almost all these lodges self-guided and imo Conor nailed the descriptions and ratings.

On some of them I'd be a little harder and some of them I'd be a little more generous.

Having said that, there's Conors' review, Zenith Guides (Evans) review and my TRs. I'd say all of that should give people enough data points if they do their own homework in addition.

Edit. Also added that Conor guides out of these huts but just like me or any other plebian he has to rent the lodgespace from the owners just like anyone else

[garyfromterrace]

Don't disagree Lee. However, you don't get paid to take people into these lodges and guide them therefore your previous reviews/trip reports (and mine of Burnie, Battle Abbey, LFH's Ripley Cr Stewart operation and anywhere else I've posted about) are completely objective.

edit - I think the word I wanted to use was Objective (in the case of you or me), in other words we aren't swayed by any other motives as we have no skin in the game.

[LeeLau]

Don't disagree Lee. However, you don't get paid to take people into these lodges and guide them therefore your previous reviews/trip reports (and mine of Burnie, Battle Abbey, LFH's Ripley Cr Stewart operation and anywhere else I've posted about) are completely objective.

edit - I think the word I wanted to use was Objective (in the case of you or me), in other words we aren't swayed by any other motives as we have no skin in the game.

Yeah.. I just crave powl like an addict. Fair point

[XXX-er]

The guide/ the weather/ the snow/ your group could all contribute to your opinion of a BC lodge in BC but the big one is the weather/ snow cuz its hard to forecast a year ahead of time

[Danno]

Cool thread. And while I understand Gary's point and am sensitive to spam, look at the username, he's not hiding that he's a guide, but he's also not blatantly advertising. And the content is $$$.

[Arctos Guides]

While a guide to backcountry lodges is welcome, a bunch of "subjective reviews" by a guide who commercially guides out of these lodges sounds a lot like advertising to me.

I appreciate stoke and providing information for folks, don't get me wrong. But, caveat your reviews by letting people know these are lodges that you (and your fellow guides) provide paid guiding services.

I hear you Gary; however just about any review you read is going to be subject to some level of commercial influence. I've tried to be as objective as possible in these reviews. As Lee mentioned, I, just like you, am a consumer of these lodge weeks; I go to the ones I like and avoid the ones I don't like. I did my best to shoot straight and convey my objective thoughts about the lodges I reviewed.

The marketing game for small business owners is a funny one. I've chosen to engage with people by providing free information about the snowpack with my "Rogers Pass Backcountry Conditions Reports", introduce my style of adventure through trip reports and finally, provide thoughtful product reviews. My intention is to develop a relationship with people through providing pertinent content that has value for our backcountry community. Call it marketing if you will, but personally, I feel the posts I have contributed to this forum are positive contributions and tread carefully on the advertising line.

I am sorry if that rubs you the wrong way.

[XXX-er]

I think ever one would have liked to see pictures of the seats in the well designed out house at burnie, I don't know where ze guide got those but i never seen them anywhere else

[garyfromterrace]

Cool thread. And while I understand Gary's point and am sensitive to spam, look at the username, he's not hiding that he's a guide, but he's also not blatantly advertising. And the content is $$$.

Danno, I hear you. It says in his username that he is a guide. But I also see that any objective review by him has potential to be skewed for financial gain. Do you think that he'd rate the terrain a "1" if he and his group got skunked for a week in a lodge he was guiding out of because of a breakable crust that was everywhere? How bout rating the cooking a "2" if the lunches were crappy at a lodge that he was selling seats to. Hopefully not, but seriously if it's your living you'd be more likely to give the ratings a break.

He wants to write a TR for every lodge he guides out of (or visits for that matter, that would be more in keeping with a TGR TR), fly at it. It's the rating them all that I have an issue with. Which ones does he guide out of, which ones did he just visit as a paying customer - I don't know, but I'd like to. I think rating one that he guides out of regularly vs. ones he just visits has the potential to be skewed.

How bout he just doesn't rate them then?

Hey Arctos, I'm not looking for an argument here. I'm also not an OG 20,00 post mag who's been here since the days of powder mag forums. BUT, this is TGR and you need to have thick skin here and like your good friends, if someone sees something that doesn't sit perfectly well with them they WILL speak up and let you know about it. I do not wish you any ill will at all, but you have been here for 2 years and have 32 posts. You are new here and have taken no shit from anyone on the forum that I know of. So, Welcome!!!!

I hear you Gary; however just about any review you read is going to be subject to some level of commercial influence. I've tried to be as objective as possible in these reviews.

Firstly, this statement is untrue if you are a lowly skier going to a lodge for a trip (like me, or any other regular joe) and paying for said hut trip or any trip (or piece of gear, or service) out of their own pocket. How is my trip or trip report subject to "commercial influence"? It's not.

Kudos for you trying to be as objective "as possible". I maintain that is impossible if you are getting paid to guide these areas. Will you give an area a "1" if you go there and have to guide skiers on a breakable rain crust for a week. How bout have to sit in the lodge for 3 days because of a temperature spike? OR will you just not post that "TR"?

At Sorcerer you give the Terrain a 4.75 (2.5 when Great Canadian is operating near by.). You give the Icefall Traverse (at least I think this is what you are rating...) - Terrain 5 (good stability) 2.5 (poor stability). So if you're going to caveat this places in less than optimal conditions then you should caveat other places. What's the Sentry terrain like in poor stability? How bout LQ Outpost lodge terrain when conditions aren't blower pow?

Someone who perhaps doesn't ski huts much may take from your reviews that Burnie is all 5's all the time. You've suggested other areas aren't great in certain conditions how bout the Burnie?

As Lee mentioned, I, just like you, am a consumer of these lodge weeks; I go to the ones I like and avoid the ones I don't like.

So you won't go to or review the ones you don't like? On what basis do you not like them? Your list then will be far from comprehensive.

The marketing game for small business owners is a funny one.

OK. How?

I've chosen to engage with people by providing free information about the snowpack with my "Rogers Pass Backcountry Conditions Reports", introduce my style of adventure through trip reports and finally, provide thoughtful product reviews. My intention is to develop a relationship with people through providing pertinent content that has value for our backcountry community. Call it marketing if you will...

I do call it marketing, and have no problem with that as long as you tell people this is marketing (and therefore advertising) and it's far from an "objective" TR.

I am sorry if that rubs you the wrong way.

You don't have to be sorry. I saw your first TR on here and when I saw that you also guided (for money) this "Trip Report" my eyebrows went up. If you are selling spots on a trip to folks for any of these lodges, then I believe that you should let people know this.