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TR: The Elevator Shaft, Taylor Glacier 8.6.05
TR: Elevator Shaft, Taylor Glacier 8.6.05
PowPig, iskibc
The steep elevator shaft-like wall of snow called Taylor Glacier is tucked away in the far reaches of Rocky Mountain National Park. The glacier is seen by many as there are several great vantage points throughout the park, but climbed by few. The 5.5 mile slog in past Loch Vale is full of large and small boulder scrambling, tight and steep maneuvers through dense brush, and of course an exciting and teeth clenching snow climb up 1,200’ of some of the steepest pitched snow in Colorado. Like Gerry Roach said in his book, “moderate my ass glacier”, this one is definitely up there for exposure. This classic class 3+ snow climb has a daunting pitch averaging 60 degrees for the last third of the climb. Later in the summer the top narrow section measures out in the high 60s and is no more than a ski length in width. Today was going to be a challenge. I couldn’t wait…..
Only 4 days out from my little mishap on the Ptarmigan chutes and I was ready to go……mentally. With my hip still bruised up and sore, I couldn’t stand sitting around the house any longer. I needed to get out. I met Powpig in Lyons just before dawn and we made our way up to the park. There was kind of an eerie vibe as we entered the park as the search was still on for Jeff Christensen, the missing ranger, and there were media vans and volunteer rescue all over. We arrived at the glacier gorge trailhead and started the slog in to Taylor. The trail up to Loch Vale is your typical RMNP trail: wide, well maintained, and heavily traveled. This trail is one of my favorites in the park as the views are amazing and the high alpine lakes are mesmerizing.
Making our way up to Sky Pond:
The first 3.5 or so miles only yields 1,000’ in elevation gain, so you can imagine what the final 2 mile push is like.
Powpig checking things out above the lake:
Once past Glass Lake the trail narrows and becomes difficult to follow.
Trout in Glass Lake:
Taylor Glacier lies in the back of a narrow and steep basin. The rock climbing opportunities are endless back here.
Just above Sky Pond we reached snow and started our climb towards the couloir.
There are a few other ski options off the glacier which we could not see from down below. Every route off this wall of snow is steep and narrow. There is no easy way down. We traded out our sneakers and shorts and donned our ice axes and crampons.
The snow down low was heavily sun cupped, but got much better as we climbed higher. A large runnel was formed along the climber’s left side of the lower part of the couloir, but nothing that would make the skiing difficult.
Just below the narrows. Things beginning to get steep:
PowPig, iskibc
The steep elevator shaft-like wall of snow called Taylor Glacier is tucked away in the far reaches of Rocky Mountain National Park. The glacier is seen by many as there are several great vantage points throughout the park, but climbed by few. The 5.5 mile slog in past Loch Vale is full of large and small boulder scrambling, tight and steep maneuvers through dense brush, and of course an exciting and teeth clenching snow climb up 1,200’ of some of the steepest pitched snow in Colorado. Like Gerry Roach said in his book, “moderate my ass glacier”, this one is definitely up there for exposure. This classic class 3+ snow climb has a daunting pitch averaging 60 degrees for the last third of the climb. Later in the summer the top narrow section measures out in the high 60s and is no more than a ski length in width. Today was going to be a challenge. I couldn’t wait…..
Only 4 days out from my little mishap on the Ptarmigan chutes and I was ready to go……mentally. With my hip still bruised up and sore, I couldn’t stand sitting around the house any longer. I needed to get out. I met Powpig in Lyons just before dawn and we made our way up to the park. There was kind of an eerie vibe as we entered the park as the search was still on for Jeff Christensen, the missing ranger, and there were media vans and volunteer rescue all over. We arrived at the glacier gorge trailhead and started the slog in to Taylor. The trail up to Loch Vale is your typical RMNP trail: wide, well maintained, and heavily traveled. This trail is one of my favorites in the park as the views are amazing and the high alpine lakes are mesmerizing.
Making our way up to Sky Pond:
The first 3.5 or so miles only yields 1,000’ in elevation gain, so you can imagine what the final 2 mile push is like.
Powpig checking things out above the lake:
Once past Glass Lake the trail narrows and becomes difficult to follow.
Trout in Glass Lake:
Taylor Glacier lies in the back of a narrow and steep basin. The rock climbing opportunities are endless back here.
Just above Sky Pond we reached snow and started our climb towards the couloir.
There are a few other ski options off the glacier which we could not see from down below. Every route off this wall of snow is steep and narrow. There is no easy way down. We traded out our sneakers and shorts and donned our ice axes and crampons.
The snow down low was heavily sun cupped, but got much better as we climbed higher. A large runnel was formed along the climber’s left side of the lower part of the couloir, but nothing that would make the skiing difficult.
Just below the narrows. Things beginning to get steep:
verrrrrry nice 
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