quality tandomobile sled- 4 sale- calgary area. great deal
Maggot snowmobile thread
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Stick with cfr they have a linq compatible system, ski doo linq is ok but not very tough and will set you back about $500 for 2 sets...
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Tunnel stiffeners are a must if you are carrying skis on a rack on your tunnel. The Tunnel will fold over time and its from the weight combined with the whoops. Doesn't matter how you ride the tunnel is not built for the weight of skis etc.... If anyone needs some in the Cgy area I have a brand new set of CFR's for a ski-doo 146-154 that i need to get rid of. Reasonable offers or trades related to skiing, biking, booze will suffice. cash preferred.Comment
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Early season is such a tease for the sled. Even after all the early damage i have done over the years, I still cant keep my self from getting at it.
I am just in the process of reassembling the machine after a pretty thorough tear down and cleaning. a few new bushings, bumper, skis ... and some fresh rivets. Sled hasn't been this tight since it rolled of the line."Its not the arrow, its the Indian" - M.PintoComment
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While the amounts of snow required to sled appear to be eons away still in this neck of the woods, I'm prepping for the season of sledding. I bought a Pilot DS-2 ski to kit to replace my thrashed DS6.9 stock skis on my 08 Summit 800. A few things I learned and a few questions.
1. Installing the ski loops with a c-clamp sucks. Is there a better way to do this? Tried using a threaded rod through the inserts and nut and washer on both ends and tightening. Worked a tad, but then the rod snapped under the tension. Installing both inserts at the same time with a c-clamp sucks more than installing one at a time with a c-clamp.
2. The existing axle ski appears to be too short to sit flush against the bushings on both skis, both for the existing and current skis. There's a washer (well, actually only 3/4 of a washer is left for whatever reason, apparently ~1/4 of the washer broke away on both skis) acting as an additional spacer.
The 3/4 washer was between the spacer (part 14) and the leg (part 12). The kit comes with only a new nylon nut, skis, loops and carbides. As far as I can tell, the assembly should be (from R->L): bolt->washer->ski->leg & axle flush to ski-> spacer -> ski flush to spacer -> nut. It's my belief that parts 2 & 13 (cushions) are part of the ski bushings as I don't see how else they would fit from the schematic, but maybe I'm wrong.
ETA: this is what photos of the cushions look like from amazon, which specifies it as a bushing cushion and looks like the bushings on the ski.
This is a photo of the finacee's skis. Mine looked the same except for the 3/4 remaining washer acting as a spacer between the specified spacer and axle on both skis. On one side I had to chisel the damn washer off.
This photo shows the gap (on the lookers right side of the ski) between bushing and axle in the new assembly.
Anyways, I'm hopeful the shop will have an answer for me but it's not local and I only am able to easily pop in when work takes me up that way during the day. I need at least one new axle and spacer regardless as one set has rusted/fused together and no amount of penetrant has had any effect. Hitting it with a hammer and chisel has only served to damage the parts. Am I missing some parts? Skidoo says that this ski goes with the XP... Presumably this gap is no bueno as a) I don't want my skis to be able to move L/R independent of the arms and b) to maintain lubrication keeping water out would be a good idea.
Thanks for any ideas."...if you're not doing a double flip cork something, skiing spines in Haines, or doing double flip cork somethings off spines in Haines, you're pretty much just gaping."Comment
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Maggot snowmobile thread
There most definitely should be a pair of bushings in the ski. I dont believe there are any washers on the axel ( at least there are none on an xm)
The bushings are part of the ski, I have gone through 3 pairs, all had the bushing installed ( and nothing else )
As for the grab rings, I have always just used bolts to secure them, way easier (and cheaper ) than the OEM rivet."Its not the arrow, its the Indian" - M.PintoComment
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^^^ Yeah, that's what my new skis look like, too. I'll investigate further with the shop via ye old mobile phone tomorrow, see if they have any thoughts on the matter.
And yeah, I think that'll be what I go to in the future for the loops - got them in this time but won't go to that trouble again.
Is there a specific torque the carbide nuts should be torqued to? Or is it just "tight"?"...if you're not doing a double flip cork something, skiing spines in Haines, or doing double flip cork somethings off spines in Haines, you're pretty much just gaping."Comment
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You should get new bolts for the skis as well with nuts, washers etc. Good idea to grease and take apart as the rubber that goes between the ski and spindle often needs to be replaced. Also makes life way easier. And I don't run carbines, just the metal runners. The glance off rocks better and while living in the rockies I hit rocks often or wear them out on access. Cheap too , 40$.
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On the topic of skis... anyone ever gouged the lateral plastic of the ski and made a good repair? I stupidly cut out the gouged section, so there’s a curved indentation now that seems like it could easily snag on stuff. Any ideas? Thinking about dremeling and beveljng unless there’s a better idea out there. Thanks!
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