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Google this: hung up trees falling
Here’s a good start:
Here’s a good start:
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Perfect, thanks. Been mostly reviewing BC tree felling videos. Those things are awesome. Extra info is bonus for a hack like me.Comment
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Cool. Just be careful and take your time. Hung up trees can be frustrating...and kind of potentially dangerous.Comment
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they freak me the fuck out. I typically use a come-along from far far away...Comment
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Speaking of BC felling vids-> I love me some Buckin’ Billy Ray Smith. Dude breaks down what he does and why.
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I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.Comment
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Just a husky 455. Works fine for firewood and some trail work, but definitely not enough saw for milling.
But even if I had a big saw that could run through a cut at, say, 3x the speed, it'd still be pretty tedious work. Setting up the mill takes a little bit for each cut, and ultimately, for the quality of plank that I needed for a trail feature (i.e. didn't need to be super flat or pretty) I could just freehand the cut without fucking around with the mill.Comment
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Some picks from the two wood sheds i've built from wood on property. Not the posts as they are seconds from a pretty nearby utility pole manufacturer ( PT cedar) . Second pic with skid steer the back beam didn't come from property but was a blow down in a cut block. Wanted 3 flats with base to match post. One cut make a perfect back diagonal.Attached FilesMrs. Dougw- "I can see how one of your relatives could have been killed by an angry mob."
Originally posted by ill-advised strategyComment
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I really like those sheds!
Neofox, when we had more than 20 dead and large pondo pines sitting on our property, I looked into milling them. I ended up calling a local with a portable mill and high recommendations and experience. His advise was to pre-plan the board sizes that you’ll want. He also strongly urged against using dead (standing) pondo because of how they partially dry out in that situation. His experience was that some of the trunks could be “checked” and not make good lumber. During the drought he was felling and partially milling green trees that even had that problem. He strongly recommended milling green trees or recently green trees and going through the drying process once they were milled. The outdoor drying process is another interesting feat up here. Want to keep covered but with plenty of air circulation.Comment
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Cut up 5 more blow down areas today. This one in particular was a bit of a fun puzzle for me. I credit this thread in helping me solve it. I really enjoyed getting it done. One thing learned that really helped was clearing other trees out of the way. I had one dead and one partially live in the way. I still kinda suck at cutting the notch to the right depth. Working on it.
Finished
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The chainsaw thread...
If u saw my posts in the who’s cutting wood thread, you’ll see that I had a friend drop two oaks overhanging my garage. It involved a lot of climbing and rope work, and one of the oaks was pretty rotten. Here’s the related little saw story that I find interesting.
The friend is retiring. He gets pretty sick from exhaust exposure and is throwing in the towel after about 40 years of climbing and running saws for a living. He wears a mask now when he’s running a gas saw. Currently, he has a battery Oregon saw that he uses for climbing, an old ms250, and a 66. The 66 is hooked up to an Alaska mill, in use by one of his helpers, and wasn’t at my place. He calls it “stinky” because it smokes a lot. The ms250 was acting up when his helper and I were brushing and bucking limbs, so the helper and I were trading between my two saws until my ms361 started acting up, too. At the time for dropping the trees, my friend got my ms361 to fire up and we got the first tree on the ground with no problems. The second oak, we rigged a come-along to help counter lean. tied at the top of the tree. We knew this tree had a little rot at least showing on the outside bark, but his notch only showed a little piece of bad wood at center. When cutting the back cut, the tree started pinching the bar about half way through the planned cut. He stopped, set the saw down idling, and scurried to check on our rope tension. While retieing the come-along, my idling saw died. We got the rope set up, and I fetched some wedges. The saw still had fue but would not fire up. He could have finished his back cut with my other saw, but instead, he drove in the wedges, noticed how easily they went it, then came back to us and we pulled the tree over with about 4-6 inches of hinge/ “holding” wood left. The holding wood was all rotten and stayed with the tree. He said that my saw dropped him a hint that a saw was no longer the right tool to get the oak safely on the ground.... we did some initial troubleshooting and couldn’t get the spark plug in my saw or his ms250 to spark. Hopefully, that’s the only problem with the saws.
Here’s a picture showing the “hinge/holding wood” attached to the wrong side.
Last edited by bodywhomper; 08-24-2019, 09:36 AM.Comment
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Saw problems.
My old ms361 is acting up. Currently, engine floods often. The ease of flooding the engine is a known issue for this saw that I’ve sometimes struggled with in the past, but not recently until the past few days.
A few days ago, i replaced the spark plug (see earlier post) because it was pretty fouled, and I adjusted the idle LA setting and L setting a little bit because it seemed to be idling too rich and stalling when idling. It ran well for a few tanks and a day and a half after that.
Then came flooding issues yesterday afternoon and today. Today, I started tearing down the saw and carb, but I’m wondering if I’m heading in the right direction to troubleshoot and fix it up.
Today, I gave one pull fully choked (I didn’t hear a blip of anything), then quickly set to the high throttle/half choke setting and started pulling with no results. (Yesterday, in the late morning, it fired up super easy this way (like 3 total pulls). I removed the spark plug, it was wet. With saw control in “on” setting, plug out, I held the saw plug-hole down and pulled many times to clear out the piston. I wiped the plug dry and walked away to do something else to let the piston dry even more. I put it all back together, and I tried starting with the half choke/high throttle setting (didn’t use the fully choked setting this time) and got no firing. I pulled out the spark plug and it’s soaked. Maybe I’m missing a fundamental about my saw’s function (totally possible) but my understanding is that the piston should not be filling with fuel in that setting (it’s also the “warm start” setting) and that maybe something is stuck like a needle valve in my carb that’ll allow a lot of fuel to get into the saw when in that setting.
When my saw is warmed up, I always pull start it from the “on” setting and not the “warm start” half throttle/high idle setting. I’ve been using the saw the past week in 90+* air temps and low humidity.
While I have the saw broken and carb broken down, should I do anything else?
I’ve been using ethanol-free gas for many tanks (months).
I’m on my phone. I hope that all made sense.
Thoughts?Comment
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Are you getting a spark? You can ground the plug to the piston head (don't do this with fuel everywhere obviously).
When is the last time you put a new air filter on?
Fucking with the carb settings to fix problems always led to saws that didn't run right in my experience.Comment
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Sounds like it could be a needle/seat issue? If the seat and or needle gets worn it will allow too much fuel through.
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