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  • Canada1
    replied

    I've put these pre loads on a couple Sram Bikes after similar experiences. Probably overkill, but the plastic preloads are not something I find overly trustworthy. https://www.canecreek.com/products/crank-preloaders.

    Leave a comment:


  • jdadour
    replied
    Originally posted by toast2266
    Keep all of the spokes, both old and new. Use them for all the things that random spokes are useful for, including but not limited to:
    -sharpen them into pokey tools for poking at things that need poking.
    -use them for jamming glue into small holes, such as when mounting skis.
    -bend them into hooks that can be used for hanging things (such as hanging an object from a sawhorse while you spray paint it)
    -use them for any situation that calls for medium gauge stainless steel wire
    -put one in your bike pack for fixing your friend's broken wheels on the trail. When it inevitably doesn't fit, blame them for having the wrong wheel size.

    etc.
    Further proof why this is still my favorite thread on TGR. Toast Has Spoken...

    Leave a comment:


  • volklpowdermaniac
    replied
    Ha. Done

    Leave a comment:


  • SchralphMacchio
    replied
    You guys made my day. I am thoroughly entertained by toast and sfotex (and you guys aren’t wrong either, I just don’t have your guys’ garage skills). Wonderful.

    Leave a comment:


  • sfotex
    replied
    Originally posted by toast2266
    Keep all of the spokes, both old and new. Use them for all the things that random spokes are useful for, including but not limited to:
    -sharpen them into pokey tools for poking at things that need poking.
    -use them for jamming glue into small holes, such as when mounting skis.
    -bend them into hooks that can be used for hanging things (such as hanging an object from a sawhorse while you spray paint it)
    -use them for any situation that calls for medium gauge stainless steel wire
    -put one in your bike pack for fixing your friend's broken wheels on the trail. When it inevitably doesn't fit, blame them for having the wrong wheel size.

    etc.
    I just bought an old Vespa scooter at an auction (it was supposed to come with a key, but it was lost before I got to me)... So I was out in the garage trying to pop the seat open with out a key Tuesday night , and was rummaging around in the toolbox and pulled out an old oval Wheelsmith spoke from a wheel I built 30 years ago, shoved the it under the seat latch, gave it a tub, and it was open. So listen to Toast and save the spokes....

    Leave a comment:


  • toast2266
    replied
    Keep all of the spokes, both old and new. Use them for all the things that random spokes are useful for, including but not limited to:
    -sharpen them into pokey tools for poking at things that need poking.
    -use them for jamming glue into small holes, such as when mounting skis.
    -bend them into hooks that can be used for hanging things (such as hanging an object from a sawhorse while you spray paint it)
    -use them for any situation that calls for medium gauge stainless steel wire
    -put one in your bike pack for fixing your friend's broken wheels on the trail. When it inevitably doesn't fit, blame them for having the wrong wheel size.

    etc.

    Leave a comment:


  • volklpowdermaniac
    replied
    What to do with extra wheel parts:
    Ive got a ten year old hydra rear wheel that has gotten wonky, I've gotten a lot a lot of life out of it. For reference is a alloy BC360 27.5+. In short: the hub seems like it needs to be fully rebuilt and the wheel itself has been bashed back into place many times and who knows how long before it won't hold a tire anymore. For now it's mounted, spinning - fine / albeit draggy and off axis.

    anyways at somepoint over last ten years i9 sent me new spokes and a new rim that I finally planned to swap over to the old hub and do a full hub service. Then I totaled the hub service parts - 400+ bucks- and a new i9 hydra hub was on sale for 250. So I snagged that instead. Only the new hub is classic spokes as opposed to the old which is straight pull. The wheel shop gonna build it up with straight pull and I'll have a new hub and wheel and be ready to rock.

    but now I've got leftover parts - 32 new straight pull spokes, a beat to shit hydra rear hub, a beat to shit alloy rim, and 32 old spokes.

    what's the move with all of that. Doesn't seem like any thing cost effective.

    Leave a comment:


  • Spencer123
    replied
    As a follow up.... if the pinch bolt is backed off too far, the preload adjuster will just spin apparently. It needs to be engaged a little bit, but still loose enough to spin to snug up. I had absent mindedly opened it up too far before I start turning the preload ring. Thanks for all the help!

    Leave a comment:


  • BFD
    replied
    easy question I want to buy my girlfriend a bike. I was thinking a Pivot Mach 4. They seem light and that they would be a good trail bike for a 68 year old women. found this one on pink bike .https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/4126014/
    she is on an old aluminum Giant with two chain rings. I would like to get something a little more modern. Is that a fair price for that bike. Only been 3 years not ready to go new.

    Leave a comment:


  • Andeh
    replied
    I'd just add an extra 0.5mm or 1mm spindle spacer on the non-drive side, since if you add it there it will just reduce how much you have to turn the preload ring and not affect the chainline. The important thing is to match the chart on the drive side.

    Leave a comment:


  • Spencer123
    replied
    Will do! In the meantime, the preload ring is essentially just to take up play from the cranks right? So if there is no play, and all the major stuff is torqued to spec, it's not likely a major issue right?

    Leave a comment:


  • g_man80
    replied
    That is strange. Sorry, I don’t have any other suggestions. Let us know what the solution is if you get it resolved.

    Leave a comment:


  • Spencer123
    replied
    Thanks! Just double checked, spacers are correct. The cranks don't have play, and the preload collar is up against the spacer, it just seemingly won't snug up at all and truly add preload. So strange.

    Leave a comment:


  • g_man80
    replied
    I’d start with confirming you have the correct DUB spacers on the BB. For DUB wide if it’s a threaded 73 BB you’ll need a 3mm on the left and 7.5mm on the right. As opposed to the single drive side 4.5mm spacer used with normal boost DUB cranks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Spencer123
    replied
    I am installing sram transmission with the dub wide spacing for the first time. I am used to standard sram eagle. When I turn the preload ring it just spins, it never really snugs up. I am used to feeling it start to snug up and then backing it off a hair with my standard gx eagle stuff. There isn't any play in the cranks, so I don't know if this is just because it is up against a spacer. Any ideas on why this may be, and more importantly, if there is no play in the cranks, does it matter? Thank you!

    Leave a comment:

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