Ask the experts

[summit]

Do they have the same offset?

I assume the DTs do? How do I check?

[toast2266]

That's kind of what I mean though. Like, I don't doubt that they collected data that says what they reported. I just don't think what they're tested is relevant to the real world. A well designed lab test absolutely can be representative, but achieving "well designed" is hard.

I guess what I'm saying is that, while their tests are maybe not representative of every real world scenario (or even most real world scenarios), their tests are at least accurate for what they are, and to the extent that those situations happen in the real world, they're worthwhile.

Of the brakes they tested that I've ridden enough to have an opinion on them, I found their numbers to be more or less what I expected. Code RSC's are comparable in stopping ability to the better Shimanos. Guides are worse. Maguras are better. I'm only really looking at the stopping times, as they themselves said that the max power is meaningless, and I think the average power they listed isn't all that useful since it doesn't account for modulation (i.e. it only measures power at the particular lever force they used, which will have more or less power depending on the brake's "leverage curve").

That obviously doesn't account for a lot of the other stuff that I like or dislike about brakes though. Like, I don't like that shimanos will randomly pull to the bar if you don't bleed them every 3 days. I don't like that Maguras are made out of plastic and the bleed ports strip. I don't like that the DOT fluid in srams takes off paint. Etc.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Look at the back of the drive side crank arm by the pedal hole and it will tell you the exact model, this will tell us how many spacers you are suppose to have.

https://dassets.shimano.com/content/dam/global/cg1SHICCycling/final/ev/ev/EV-FC-M8120-4558B.pdf

it is more likely it fell off during installation than broke so look around where did the deed.

the "rings" in this diagram are just orings that are part of the spacer.

Yes it's an 8120

[Boissal]

Shimano XT 12-speed on GG Gnarvana. Assuming I somehow lost a spacer by either it breaking or somehow losing one when I pulled the cranks which side do I put the spacers on? I feel like when I pulled the cranks there were two on the non-drive side and now only one?!

Edit to add: So I think I need one on each side of the BB and I think maybe the one on the drive side cracked and fell off somehow.

Wait, are those the 2.5mm BB spacers we're talking about? In my mind those go between the frame and the BB cup, not between the cup and the crankarm. With a Gnarvana and a 73mm wide BB you end up with 1 spacer on the DS and that's it.
The XTR cranks do take spacers in that spot but not the XT, cranks should be flush with the BB cup. Unless I've been doing it wrong for quite some time...

Edit: nvm, just saw your last post with model number, the 8120 does have a 3 mm spacer between BB cup and crankarm (one on each side). I'm running and 8100 which doesn't have any spacers.

[MegaStoke]

Ask the experts

I just put an EXT Storia coil shock on my Sentinel, and it’s been amazing. Only thing is, it really highlights the shortcomings of my current fork, a Manitou Mezzer. My biggest gripe with the Manitou is the lack of small bump compliance, and a general feeling of harshness on high speed chattery stuff. The fork actually feels quite good on medium and larger hits, but I simply cannot get it to perform to my standards on the smaller stuff. I suspect the bushings are tight, which is fixable, but honestly I’m over it and want to try something else entirely.

I come from a DH racing background, so I like to ride gnarly terrain at high speed, prioritize a planted hovercraft feel, and want maximum traction on chunky high speed nonsense. I weight 160lbs and ride fast but generally pretty smooth, and have never felt like 35-36mm forks were too flexy for me.

So what’s the latest and greatest 160mm travel fork when it comes to plushness while still offering good support without being too massively heavy? I’ve thought about maybe snagging a Lyrik or 36 and putting a Smashpot in, or maybe one of the new RS Charger 3.0 forks(although it sounds like some people are finding these harsh?), or a fox 36 or 38? Or maybe an EXT ERA, although the price and lack of user serviceability are not the best. I’m also not opposed to aftermarket dampers, coil conversions, Secus’s, or whatever if that’s what it comes to, I just want my fork to be awesome for blasting down rocky mountainsides at Mach stupid.

So mags, what 160mm forks are blowing your mind right now?

[Boissal]

Honestly if you suspect bushings just email Manitou and ask for new lowers. I had mine swapped 4 days after I reached out to their warranty.

I have 2 of these forks, one on the trail bike with an air shock and one on the pig with a Storia. Been running the one on the trail bike for 2 years now and it took very little effort to get dialed. It's buttery smooth on any level of hit, from small brake bumps to hideous compressions and flat landings.
Once I got the bushing issue addressed on the 2nd one it took a lot more effort to set up properly and I got a bit frustrated with the process. I imagine it's because the behavior of the coil is so different from the air shock and it makes balancing the bike a bit harder. The sensitivity of the Storia is insane and it made the fork feel way off. Surprisingly the solution for me was to run lower main pressure and higher IRT to get the fork more progressive, something I thought wouldn't mesh well with the linear shock. It does, and small bump sensitivity is outstanding now. I had to slow the rebound quite a bit compared to the trail bike but the pig now feels super balanced and is absolutely glued to the ground and incredibly plush...

[summit]

You should seriously look at DVO Diamond D1 or Onyx. The OTT makes small bump coil like because it literally has a little coil for that.

I loved my D1 on my Tracer. If my Spire didn't come full built with a Float 38 I would have bought a DVO for it.

[bagtagley]

WRG, you ridden that thing in Smash mode? If not, you should.

[MegaStoke]

Ask the experts

You should seriously look at DVO Diamond D1 or Onyx. The OTT makes small bump coil like because it literally has a little coil for that.

I loved my D1 on my Tracer. If my Spire didn't come full built with a Float 38 I would have bought a DVO for it.

Weird, I had a Diamond D1 a few years back and that thing was a piece of shit. Super tight bushings, damper needed rebled regularly, and CSU creaking.

It sucks that even when you buy a >$1k fork there’s still a decent chance you get a lemon, and it doesn’t seem like any mfg is immune to that.

[HAB]

WRG, you ridden that thing in Smash mode? If not, you should.

Gnarvana doesn't have a flip chip for that.

[North]

So mags, what 160mm forks are blowing your mind right now?

Not the 2021 Lyrik that came on my Sight. ~20 rides in and its the harshest fork (in high speed chunk) I've owned. I'm braking into rough sections I would previously mob through because I can't get it to track.

I'm still sussing out whether it's a setup issue or an issue with the fork itself. I haven't puzzled this much on fork setup since my Fox 34 CTD (an objectively bad fork). Will check travel without air in the chamber and pull lowers this week.

[toast2266]

Not the 2021 Lyrik that came on my Sight. ~20 rides in and its the harshest fork (in high speed chunk) I've owned. I'm braking into rough sections I would previously mob through because I can't get it to track.

I'm still sussing out whether it's a setup issue or an issue with the fork itself. I haven't puzzled this much on fork setup since my Fox 34 CTD (an objectively bad fork). Will check travel without air in the chamber and pull lowers this week.

I think the lyriks are pretty hit or miss on build quality. I've had a few different lyriks that were supposedly the same, but in reality felt pretty different. Some were fantastic, some were meh. They all got better after a lot (like 100+ hours) of break in.

[rideit]

I got the new Pike and Zeb with the buttercups, very solid, real improvement to high frequency stutters and impacts. Thanks for the idea, Voorsprung!

[Danno]

You want a pair? I've got a drawer with several 20-year old SPD pairs (Wellgo & Ritchey, mostly) that have collected dust since I made the switch to Time ATACs long ago. Yours for the cost of shipping.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]423323[/ATTACH]

sending PM now

[bagtagley]

Gnarvana doesn't have a flip chip for that.

I meant with Smash stays. Somebody around there has a set he can borrow.