Ask the experts

[toast2266]

There are plenty of areas where heavier tires aren't necessary just because it's not that rocky. But those are also areas where 150mm + travel bikes aren't necessary. If a long travel bike is warranted, so are heavy tires.

Added bonus is that heavy tires can run way lower pressure without the sidewalls folding in corners.

[jono]

There are plenty of areas where heavier tires aren't necessary just because it's not that rocky. But those are also areas where 150mm + travel bikes aren't necessary. If a long travel bike is warranted, so are heavy tires.

Added bonus is that heavy tires can run way lower pressure without the sidewalls folding in corners.

So sharpness of chunk plays no role? I can see using long travel for bigger, smoother features and not needing heavy tires. Also if you tend toward higher pressures, which smoother surfaces make a bit more comfortable.

Around me the sharpness of rocks varies with altitude a lot of times. If I'm not hitting high, newish trails with a lot of stuff sticking out of them I worry a lot less about sharp rock punctures. But I'm not switching to a hard tail.

[Andeh]

Yeah, my local trails don't need DD for puncture protection, but I like to run them in the summer because I can drop like 3 psi over EXO+ and not have them fold/squirm/make sad noises on every berm.

[rideit]

Ok, any of you have suggestions for the most durable crank arm protectors (XT, XTR 12) etc?
I have gotten two varieties from eBay before, some are soft silicone that don’t last very long, and some others that were more like hard plastic. Just curious what y’all in chunk-country run before just ordering some cheap crap.

[El Chupacabra]

I've only used them for carbon cranks - Race Face and SRAM covers. They seem pretty similar, hold up fine.

[Andeh]

Why do you need protectors for metal crank arms (XT/XTR)?

[rideit]

So they don’t get beat to shit, and *might* have some resale value if I don’t like the length? (XTR).
The ones I have on two sets are absolutely wrecked, but the end of the arms are still pristine.

I am waiting for some 165 Sweetwings to come in stock, I won’t care about those as much.

[rudy]

I am waiting for some 165 Sweetwings to come in stock, I won’t care about those as much.

Wish I was in a place not to care “as much” about thousand dollar cranks (even if that’s not what you paid)

[rideit]

Well, Ti is harder than aluminum, and as far as I know, most boots won’t work on the EE wings…probably should have worded that “I will be less concerned with” the EE wings hitting rocks.

[North]

Added bonus is that heavy tires can run way lower pressure without the sidewalls folding in corners.

Have convinced myself this is something I notice. Would like to try DH casing at a bike park some day test the far end of the spectrum.

What's definitely noticeable is 3 flats over the span of ~15 rides on the EXO+ tires that came with my new bike . Plus side is that I'm 3/3 in getting them fixed with sealant only. Switched to Orange Seal this season and the success rate is night and day.

[toast2266]

Have convinced myself this is something I notice. Would like to try DH casing at a bike park some day test the far end of the spectrum.

In terms of sidewall flex, I notice a big difference going from exo+ to DD. The difference from DD to DH is still noticeable, but it's not quite as big.

To get similar sidewall squirm, I'm usually at about 23 psi in the rear with a DH casing, 24-25 psi with a DD casing, and around 30 psi with exo or exo+.

[Eluder]

Ok, any of you have suggestions for the most durable crank arm protectors (XT, XTR 12) etc?
I have gotten two varieties from eBay before, some are soft silicone that don’t last very long, and some others that were more like hard plastic. Just curious what y’all in chunk-country run before just ordering some cheap crap.

I use the All Mountain Style ones on my XT/XTR they have an arm guard that comes with that I don’t use but the end guard has been super solid.

https://www.allmountainstyle.com/products/ams-crank-defender-black

[Dromond]

There are plenty of areas where heavier tires aren't necessary just because it's not that rocky. But those are also areas where 150mm + travel bikes aren't necessary. If a long travel bike is warranted, so are heavy tires.

Added bonus is that heavy tires can run way lower pressure without the sidewalls folding in corners.

I don’t think anyone should assume they need heavy tires just because some others do. I know a lot of people running EXO I’m the PNW with success - plenty of experienced riders on long travel bikes. Lots of roots, mostly rounded rocks, steeps, etc. Terrain, weight and speed all play a role.

In the road/gravel world there is lots of chatter about thin, flexible sidewall tires having less rolling resistance. I can’t confirm if that is also true for a typical mtb trail but it wouldn’t surprise me. I.e. the thicker sidewall tire is heavier but also might feel slower due to increased rolling resistance.

[zion zig zag]

Those of you using a Tubilito, are you using a frame/seatpost pack? I’m using a little dakine frame bag now to carry a tube, CO2, and levers but not sure it would work with a much smaller tube.


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[muted reborn]

I blew my Cane Creek coil shock and I'm wondering what is out there to replace it. It's on a 2015 Giant Reign, which is getting outdated - it has 2 front chainrings, a 10 speed cassette, and lotsa dings and one bad dent in the aluminum frame - so I'm guessing sending the shock in to CC to be fixed is not worth my time or money. Or am I wrong? And the shock is an old model with no rear lock-out for climbing - not exactly what everyone wants. I'll probably sell the bike soon and maybe it's worth $1500 with a working shock.

Anyone have recommendations, coil or air for it that's not expensive and not horrible? Or should I get the cane creek serviced (anyone done this and what is CC like for price/time?) and buy a temp shock while i wait to get it back?