Ask the experts

[VTskibum]

I'm similarly proportioned and these days at 5'11" would go Large on most bikes. My HT and FS are both around 460mm reach (so just over the RAD calc) w/ ~50mm stem and ~20 mm riser bars with a few spacers which is good. I'd like my FS bike to be a touch longer, but tradeoff is a bit more maneuverability perhaps. Not super sold on the RAD measurement, but find the slightly longer bikes way more confidence inspiring w/o giving up much on twisty and technical.

[Falcon3]

Ask the experts

Size up or size down on MTB frame for larger than normal armspan?

I’m in this boat too. 5-10” but a 6-3” wingspan. I’d recommend going Large, but be aware, I’ve tried a bunch of large frames and what limits me on this is the droppers.

My legs aren’t long enough on most large frames to run anything bigger than a 150mm dropper, which sort of limits things depending on what you’re riding. My #1 bike now is the Transition Sentinel which can run a 210 with my inseam but Giant, Canyon, Marin, Santa Cruz, GG, Specialized, And several others just have too long of seat tubes to run longer than 150.

[TrueNorth]

Good point, I hadn't really thought about the dropper post sizing since I've never had one before. My legs are pretty average length for my height so I'll have to consider seat tube length (and I guess also standover height).

[radam]

Good point, I hadn't really thought about the dropper post sizing since I've never had one before. My legs are pretty average length for my height so I'll have to consider seat tube length (and I guess also standover height).

ymmv of course but I'll say for *our* flat, twisty, techy trails that lack high speed flow or gnarly descents, I've found that
a) 150mm drop is plenty and
b) I just don't get on with an overly steep seat tube that encourages/necessitates a longer travel dropper.

[BigHerm]

My suggestion is also to size up. I'm 177 cm w/186 cm wingspan (5'9.75" tall, 6'1" wingspan), but relatively short legs (30" pants inseam). Mediums always felt cramped and when I hopped on friends' large bikes I felt right at home. Ordered a size L Raaw Madonna and it's been super comfy after figuring out bar height, etc.

Be careful about steeper seat tubes and shorter (below 175/180) droppers. The main reason I sold a V2 Wildcat was I could only run a 160 dropper due to insertion depth and with the steep seat tube the saddle was in the way on anything decently steep, even little rockrolls.

[Boissal]

Counterpoint here: in the past month a couple of buddies who are both 6'1" decided their next bikes would be size L instead of XL after having to rent L bikesat various bikeparks. The feedback from both was that while the XL bikes are awesome for hauling ass and going straight through chunder they ended up having more fun on the shorter frames that didn't behave like aircraft carriers in tighter slightly slower and twistier terrain. If you don't feel cramped on the smaller frame and you ride with a more poppy playful style in terrain that isn't super fast and straight the smaller frame might make sense. Most recent frames seem to be able to accommodate massive droppers even in smaller sizes so that shouldn't be an issue.

[skaredshtles]

Counterpoint here: in the past month a couple of buddies who are both 6'1" decided their next bikes would be size L instead of XL after having to rent L bikesat various bikeparks. The feedback from both was that while the XL bikes are awesome for hauling ass and going straight through chunder they ended up having more fun on the shorter frames that didn't behave like aircraft carriers in tighter slightly slower and twistier terrain. If you don't feel cramped on the smaller frame and you ride with a more poppy playful style in terrain that isn't super fast and straight the smaller frame might make sense. Most recent frames seem to be able to accommodate massive droppers even in smaller sizes so that shouldn't be an issue.

Yup. 6'1" here - have always ridden "L" frames. When I was looking back in '18, even then the LLS bikes I tried in a "L" were too big. I strongly considered getting a GG Megatrail and I would have gotten a "M" had I purchased one.

[Lvovsky]

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Can’t get rid of squshiness in Tectro Orion 4F rear brake. Did full bleed with serenges twice.

Did multiple burps with a funnel at the lever bleed port. 40 minutes plus of tapping on the line and flicking the brake and small bubbles are keep coming up. When they seem to stop and I close the system, I can still squish the lever all the way to the handle bar. Hang bike with front wheel up for a fee days, repeat the burp with funnel (another 40 minute of flicking and tapping) - same result.

I used shimano oil. Did it not mix well with Tectro oil?

I could have over extended one of the pistons. Did not see any oil coming out, pushed it back and it seems to operate fine but…. Is the air keep getting into the lines somehow?

To add insult to injury, the brake is squeaking loudly right before it bites and fully stops the wheel. Ordered new pads and rotor to eliminate contamination issue.

What’s next? Keep bleeding till i get it right? Bring it to a shop? Buy new caliper?

Update: took the pads out and the back of the pad some oil residue. Cleaned the pads, rotor, and the cylinders. Really took my time with the cylinders to make them move smoother. Bled the brake. Scored the disk and pads with sandpaper. Put everything together. Aligned the caliper to the rotor as well as i could. Rode around to bed-in the pads and the noise was gone. Tested the bike few hours later: noise is back. Will take a kook at the pads tomorrow to see if there are any fresh fluids near the cylinders.

And I can still pull the lever all the way close to the bar after the pads bite in…

[Tailwind]

Are Shimano 12 speed derailleur cages extra soft or something? In the past month I've bent two and because they're out of stock everywhere, I've ended up buying a new derailleur both times to keep my bike rolling. Once they're back in stock I'll repair the damaged ones.

My hangers are staying perfectly true and I've never had this with X01. It could be just being unlucky but the cages keep getting slightly twisted (left or right) so it's impossible for it to shift properly. I've tried bending one back without success.

[Andeh]

IME, Shimano <anything> is soft. Cassettes, derailleurs, rotors...

[HAB]

Yeah, I definitely think that Shimano's derailleurs don't hold up as well to getting tweaked as higher-end SRAM stuff. But SRAM's clutches wear out (a lot) faster and aren't adjustable to compensate for said wear, so pick your poison.

[toast2266]

X3 or whatever on shimano derailleurs being soft. Haven't had great luck with their clutches either.

I'm back on the sram bandwagon. Gx derailleurs last me a season or so, which is about 40% longer than I was getting out of XT's.

[Eluder]

Are Shimano 12 speed derailleur cages extra soft or something? In the past month I've bent two and because they're out of stock everywhere, I've ended up buying a new derailleur both times to keep my bike rolling. Once they're back in stock I'll repair the damaged ones.

My hangers are staying perfectly true and I've never had this with X01. It could be just being unlucky but the cages keep getting slightly twisted (left or right) so it's impossible for it to shift properly. I've tried bending one back without success.

Yep, my solution was painful but XTR is carbon caged and doesn't bend.

[HAB]

Yep, my solution was painful but XTR is carbon caged and doesn't bend.

I've broken two XTR outer carbon cage plates without significantly bending the aluminum inner plate.

I wish there was an option I was fully stoked about.

[J. Barron DeJong]

Yep, my solution was painful but XTR is carbon caged and doesn't bend.

Twisted my XTR within a month of owning it. Replaced it with XT since just the parts for XTR we’re almost the same price. XT has held so far (knock on wood).