Ask the experts

[jm2e]

Experts:
I pretty much only have experience with threaded bottom brackets. Which means, I’ve grown to really appreciate the fact that I can remove and replace a $25 Shim/Sram BB easily and without any fuss. And usually when I do pull my old BBs, it’s like a swamp inside the shell. How does this play out with Press Fit? Should I be looking for BBs that are sealed better, or ones that are easier to service, or ones that are less creaky?


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[toast2266]

Experts:
I pretty much only have experience with threaded bottom brackets. Which means, I’ve grown to really appreciate the fact that I can remove and replace a $25 Shim/Sram BB easily and without any fuss. And usually when I do pull my old BBs, it’s like a swamp inside the shell. How does this play out with Press Fit? Should I be looking for BBs that are sealed better, or ones that are easier to service, or ones that are less creaky?


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I don't do anything different with press fit bb's in terms of what I buy. Whether it gets swampy in there probably has more to do with the frame. Same for creakiness - that's mostly the frame (and, ime, they all creak eventually).

It's not that big a deal to replace a press fit bb. Same as threaded; just buy a moderately decent bb and replace it when it eventually dies.

[El Chupacabra]

I did just pick up a bike that uses a press fit bottom bracket, in what seems like the dumbest possible "improvement" I've seen from the bike industry in awhile: a BB92 (PF41) shell, with a 30mm crank spindle (Race Face Turbine). That leaves 11mm to fit the bearing and BB shell. Gotta be a tiny little bearing in there.

When it fails, I'm swapping in a Shimano 24mm crank with a Wheels Mfg thread - together BB. That should hold up.

[D(C)]

I did just pick up a bike that uses a press fit bottom bracket, in what seems like the dumbest possible "improvement" I've seen from the bike industry in awhile: a BB92 (PF41) shell, with a 30mm crank spindle (Race Face Turbine). That leaves 11mm to fit the bearing and BB shell. Gotta be a tiny little bearing in there.

When it fails, I'm swapping in a Shimano 24mm crank with a Wheels Mfg thread - together BB. That should hold up.

After getting about a month of smooth operation out of a couple of Race Face Cinch bottom brackets, I splurged on an Enduro bearings bottom bracket where the bearings press directly into the bottom bracket shell, which gives more room for bigger bearings and seals.

(https://www.enduroforkseals.com/prod...BB92X30SS.html).

It has held up extremely well and is as smooth as the day I bought it after a full season.

Just another option before you spend even more money on replacing your cranks.

[El Chupacabra]

After getting about a month of smooth operation out of a couple of Race Face Cinch bottom brackets, I splurged on an Enduro bearings bottom bracket where the bearings press directly into the bottom bracket shell, which gives more room for bigger bearings and seals.

(https://www.enduroforkseals.com/prod...BB92X30SS.html).

It has held up extremely well and is as smooth as the day I bought it after a full season.

Just another option before you spend even more money on replacing your cranks.

I already have an extra 24mm Shimano crankset, so all I needed was the BB. Picked up the Wheels one recently from Backcountry/ Competitive -- they were on sale for around $55.

[handlebarsfsr]

The wheels mfg threaded shell pf30 bbs are a bit pricey but fix all of the issues with pressfit. schwalbes addix rubber has improved their durability substantially, its at least as good as maxxis 3c. I find I wear maxxis tires faster.

[Dee Hubbs]

After getting about a month of smooth operation out of a couple of Race Face Cinch bottom brackets, I splurged on an Enduro bearings bottom bracket where the bearings press directly into the bottom bracket shell, which gives more room for bigger bearings and seals.
(https://www.enduroforkseals.com/prod...BB92X30SS.html).
It has held up extremely well and is as smooth as the day I bought it after a full season.
Just another option before you spend even more money on replacing your cranks.

These only work with long spindle BB30 cranks like RaceFace cinch after buying a longer spindle ($80) or random cranks like rotor 3D+ or e13. 90% of SRAM BB30 cranks have a short spindle and are not compatible. Again an aftermarket spindle and spacer would be required for your SRAM crank.

[D(C)]

These only work with long spindle BB30 cranks like RaceFace cinch after buying a longer spindle ($80) or random cranks like rotor 3D+ or e13. 90% of SRAM BB30 cranks have a short spindle and are not compatible. Again an aftermarket spindle and spacer would be required for your SRAM crank.

I didn’t need to buy a new spindle for my Turbine cranks.

[Eluder]

Anyone with experience with these two packs?

Henty Enduro

https://henty.cc/shop/enduro-backpack/?setreg=us

Camelback Chase Bike Vest

https://www.camelbak.com/en/packs/mountain-biking/R01075--Chase_Bike_Vest?color=f42e8e671e8941078e2e749a0ae31643&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0IDtBRC6ARIsAIA5gWvbtn_Pbps78ruG0PGHROOD9BMqfUTiuLiD-injopJG2VOqMVX9Er4aAiHBEALw_wcB

Looking for an everyday pack to ride trails. Prefer a pack with h2o vs switching around on-bike storage, plus I like the option to carry more stuff if I wish to. Curious which ‘’rides better’’

I have a never used Henty if anyone wants to buy one. (SOLD)

[Self Jupiter]

Ask the experts

I have a never used Henty if anyone wants to buy one.

Pm incoming

[jm2e]

Do rotors matter? Not wondering about size, wondering about brand, style, etc. I've always just used the Shimano 2 piece, imagining they're more resistant to warping. I've got some friends who swear by 3rd party floating rotors (Hope knock offs). But a lot of people seem to do just fine with cheap Sram 1- piece rotors.
I definitely suck at truing rotors, and even when I do it seems to be a very temporary fix. Makes me feel like tossing them, but at $50/ea that's a hard thing.

[D(C)]

Do rotors matter? Not wondering about size, wondering about brand, style, etc. I've always just used the Shimano 2 piece, imagining they're more resistant to warping. I've got some friends who swear by 3rd party floating rotors (Hope knock offs). But a lot of people seem to do just fine with cheap Sram 1- piece rotors.
I definitely suck at truing rotors, and even when I do it seems to be a very temporary fix. Makes me feel like tossing them, but at $50/ea that's a hard thing.

I’ve had no issues with the cheapo RT-66s. They don’t look as cool as the 2-piece rotors, though.

[EWG]

Do rotors matter? Not wondering about size, wondering about brand, style, etc. I've always just used the Shimano 2 piece, imagining they're more resistant to warping. I've got some friends who swear by 3rd party floating rotors (Hope knock offs). But a lot of people seem to do just fine with cheap Sram 1- piece rotors.
I definitely suck at truing rotors, and even when I do it seems to be a very temporary fix. Makes me feel like tossing them, but at $50/ea that's a hard thing.

Others do not share this opinion, but I actually don't give a shit about my rotors. I'm decent at truing them, which is important cause I tend to smack them into stuff, and on top of that I just buy cheap ones. I got like 12 of them at a bike swap (new Avids) for like $5-10 each and I'm just working through them.

For whatever reason I find it easy to adapt to whatever brakes I happen to be using. I've had Juicys, Hayes, and now XTs, and as far as I'm concerned, they all work fine. Even have Avid Mechanicals on one bike, and while I wouldn't want them on my 575 ripping downhill, they are generally fine. I suppose this is odd because otherwise I am super anal about all things bike. Move my bars 2mm and I will slowly go crazy, for example...

Anyway, my 2 cents.

[jm2e]

Thanks.
Updated question:
1. Related to repeated long, fast, brake cooking downhills........

New question:
2. Do you replace rotors with pads? Or do you keep rotors with old pads? Do you have problems with squealing? Because I do!

[kidwoo]

Thanks.
Updated question:
1. Related to repeated long, fast, brake cooking downhills........

New question:
2. Do you replace rotors with pads? Or do you keep rotors with old pads? Do you have problems with squealing? Because I do!

Doesn't matter. Pads will bed into the angle of the rotor based on whatever angle the caliper sits at.

Squealing should go away once you get them bedded. If not, then you just have a bad rotor/frame mount/caliper combo. But squealing before pads are really bedded in is normal because the pad surface isn't flat against the rotor yet.