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  • Whiteroom_Guardian
    ____________________
    • May 2008
    • 17348

    #1

    Gravel/Bikepack nerds enter...

    I know there are a several somewhat gravel related threads already, but figured we could bring all that discussion to one place.

    I'm dipping my toe into the darkside. I can get a deal on one of these bad larrys:

    Engineering the best Canadian mountain bikes since 2002 for riders globally. Originators of the Fourx4 suspension and Offset Seat Tube frame design. Makers of Chilcotin, Fugitive, Tyaughton (steel & titanium), Cache (steel & titanium) & Warden mountain bikes.


    I have been a casual road cyclist (winter trainer riding and spring road riding getting ready for MTB season). I used to ride alot more pure road on the east coast, but here it's more dirt. Shoulders (if existent at all) are covered in all kinds of debris.....hundreds/thousands of miles of dirt roads to explore, etc.

    I really don't like 2x. I am tempted to go with the Force 1 build, but even with the discount it's still pretty damn spendy. Been 1x11 on MTB for several years now. Don't see why I would need to go backwards for gravel riding.

    Also, what would like to hear your guys take on packing setups. Bar bags, rack bags, favorite brands of bags, etc. Anyone have any cool trips planned this summer? How many breves do I need to drink each ride? Who's the best tattoo artist for random clutter on my legs and forearms?
    www.LastBestRealty.com
    www.freeridesystems.com
  • Vt-Freeheel
    I got a hair on my tongue
    • Dec 2007
    • 15191

    #2


    or the Q&P

    www.apriliaforum.com

    "If the road You followed brought you to this,of what use was the road"?

    "I have no idea what I am talking about but would be happy to share my biased opinions as fact on the matter. "
    Ottime

    Comment

    • CantDog
      Registered User
      • Oct 2003
      • 4883

      #3
      Thats a sexy bike. I wish I had your deal, but its also an expensive bike.

      Comment

      • Groomer Gambler
        Registered User
        • Sep 2009
        • 781

        #4
        I actually prefer 2x on my gravel bike... and I've bikepacked and raced on it. My mtn bike is 1x though (29+ hardtail with suspension fork I bikepack on singletrack, can swap out for a rigid fork if its more of a mix of dirt roads and light singletrack).

        I'd start by going through every gear guide on bikepacking.com. That's my favorite site on teh interwebz currently.

        I'm on a tight budget so have a random assortment of bags. Some revelate, some no name brands, RandiJo bartenders. I use a handlebar roll and cheap dry bag, frame bag, and seat bag. Then add on a snack bag on the toptube and some bartenders if I'm biking where it's dry (i.e. lack of water to filter).

        If I had $$$ I'd probably get the Fabio's chest setup for bags.

        On a sidenote, my GF is starting to get into biking and wants to do some light touring, mostly off road and not really into hard singletrack territory. She just got the bridge club last fall, which the review here kinda shows some cool setups that you could apply to the gravel bike you're looking at too: http://www.bikepacking.com/bikes/sur...e-club-review/

        Comment

        • Whiteroom_Guardian
          ____________________
          • May 2008
          • 17348

          #5
          Originally posted by Groomer Gambler
          I actually prefer 2x on my gravel bike... and I've bikepacked and raced on it. My mtn bike is 1x though (29+ hardtail with suspension fork I bikepack on singletrack, can swap out for a rigid fork if its more of a mix of dirt roads and light singletrack).

          I'd start by going through every gear guide on bikepacking.com. That's my favorite site on teh interwebz currently.

          I'm on a tight budget so have a random assortment of bags. Some revelate, some no name brands, RandiJo bartenders. I use a handlebar roll and cheap dry bag, frame bag, and seat bag. Then add on a snack bag on the toptube and some bartenders if I'm biking where it's dry (i.e. lack of water to filter).

          If I had $$$ I'd probably get the Fabio's chest setup for bags.

          On a sidenote, my GF is starting to get into biking and wants to do some light touring, mostly off road and not really into hard singletrack territory. She just got the bridge club last fall, which the review here kinda shows some cool setups that you could apply to the gravel bike you're looking at too: http://www.bikepacking.com/bikes/sur...e-club-review/
          Yeah, now that I think about it 2x does seem to make more sense for a loaded bike with bags, etc. 105 with Ultegra rear der vs. full ultegra? Seems like Knolly doesn't put any crappy components on a build. Probably makes the most sense to go with the lowest build and slowly swap stuff out since I always fully overhaul every bike I own anyway.

          Now, suspension fork? Looking at the maps there are lots of Montana rides where I will have to ride some singletrack whether I want to or not. That bike full rigid even with the biggest tubeless tires will still be pretty fucking brutal....but isn't that the whole point? Full rigid seems more legit. I mean people do this to suffer, right?
          www.LastBestRealty.com
          www.freeridesystems.com

          Comment

          • jamal
            how did this get here
            • Feb 2012
            • 2188

            #6
            Looks like the 2x options are either road compact 50/34 or CX 46/36. 46/36 especially is useless for anything but cross racing IMO. The 1x setup gives you an easier lowest gear and 40x10 is pretty decent up top. Only downside is there are larger jumps between gears and it's more expensive. But lighter. And I have heard from a number of people who prefer shimano's road hydro brakes to sram. If there was a "gravel" crank option with 46/30 rings that would make it a harder choice, maybe they can do that if you ask?

            Personally I like the simplicity of the 1x setup on my cross bike despite it being kind of tall and a narrow range (42 x 11-32, it's primarily a race bike though). I need a new wheelset for general riding (I have tubulars and some "not quite straight but passable" wheels right now) and I'll probably pick up a 10/11-42 cassette for it so I can crank up trails and steep roads more easily and maybe throw on a frame bag. From scratch I probably would have gone with 40 x 11-36.

            I'm trying to get my dad into either a kona rove nrb or a cannondale topstone. Probably going to be the cannondale. The ~$1700 version comes with hydro discs and 2x with that 46/30 crankset while the similarly priced rove is apex 1x, 650b x 47mm tires, but mechanical discs. He's a big guy and the larger volume tires would be nice but I think he'll appreciate the better brakes more (the cannondale comes with 700x40 wtb nanos). I'd like one myself actually. I do notice the downsides of riding my cx bike on longer gravel rides, although putting on bigger tires and the new gears has improved it over how it was originally. Right now I have a 40mm nano up front and a 38 specialized tracer rear. Way more stable and comfortable than 33mm cross tires on dirt roads and trails.

            Comment

            • bagtagley
              yelgatgab
              • Oct 2002
              • 10345

              #7
              Get something cheap and get out on it. See if you even like it. Take some short bikepacking trips and figure out what you need to carry and how you like to carry it. Seems kinda crazy to blow your wad on the ideal setup without even knowing what that is.
              Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

              Comment

              • HankScorpio
                Registered User
                • Aug 2008
                • 4842

                #8
                Chiming in on the drivetrain conversation. I've been riding an older mountain bike with drop bars for the last year for gravel grinding and will be upgrading to a proper gravel frame soon and swapping over some parts. My generous buddy is selling me his lightly used Seven Mudhoney frame, which is way more bike than I need but I can't say no to that deal.

                I'm definitely committed to 1x as I already have a the shifter/brake lever set up for it and enjoy the simplicity. Curious what others are running for 1x setups who climb a lot. Steep and loose climbs are a reality for me so I'm thinking of a 38t in the front with a 40t cassette. I'm guessing with that size cassette I'll need an mtb rear derailleur.

                Also wondering about cranks. I'm looking replace my current heavy mtb cranks with light XC race crank or maybe road specific cranks. My gravel rides take me on some trails so Shimano XTs are tempting.

                Comment

                • Groomer Gambler
                  Registered User
                  • Sep 2009
                  • 781

                  #9
                  Originally posted by jamal
                  Looks like the 2x options are either road compact 50/34 or CX 46/36. 46/36 especially is useless for anything but cross racing IMO. The 1x setup gives you an easier lowest gear and 40x10 is pretty decent up top. Only downside is there are larger jumps between gears and it's more expensive. But lighter. And I have heard from a number of people who prefer shimano's road hydro brakes to sram. If there was a "gravel" crank option with 46/30 rings that would make it a harder choice, maybe they can do that if you ask?

                  Personally I like the simplicity of the 1x setup on my cross bike despite it being kind of tall and a narrow range (42 x 11-32, it's primarily a race bike though). I need a new wheelset for general riding (I have tubulars and some "not quite straight but passable" wheels right now) and I'll probably pick up a 10/11-42 cassette for it so I can crank up trails and steep roads more easily and maybe throw on a frame bag. From scratch I probably would have gone with 40 x 11-36.

                  I'm trying to get my dad into either a kona rove nrb or a cannondale topstone. Probably going to be the cannondale. The ~$1700 version comes with hydro discs and 2x with that 46/30 crankset while the similarly priced rove is apex 1x, 650b x 47mm tires, but mechanical discs. He's a big guy and the larger volume tires would be nice but I think he'll appreciate the better brakes more (the cannondale comes with 700x40 wtb nanos). I'd like one myself actually. I do notice the downsides of riding my cx bike on longer gravel rides, although putting on bigger tires and the new gears has improved it over how it was originally. Right now I have a 40mm nano up front and a 38 specialized tracer rear. Way more stable and comfortable than 33mm cross tires on dirt roads and trails.
                  Yeah I have a stock road compact crankset (50-34) and swapped my cassette for a 10-36 with a mtn bike derailleur. This year, I'm thinking about trying one of the subcompact (or whatever they're calling it) cranksets with a 46-30. Or maybe one of those shiny absolute black oval ring combos so I don't need a new crank. Gearing is one of the biggest factors for gravel and bikepacking that I think a lot of people overlook. Most gravel bikes come specced with standard road gearing, which unless you live in the Midwest or where it's relatively flat, you need better gearing for with lots of climbs (i.e. Montana).

                  Take a look at the Sutra LTD too. It can clear a 29x2.1" tire. I'm a big fan of better tire clearances on gravel bikes. Current bike just clears a 700x42 and I'd love to be able to clear more of an old school mtn bike tire around 50-55cc. I'd think if you are a larger dude bigger tires with the ability to run less air pressure would make a significant difference in comfort. You can always upgrade the brakes (mechanical brakes really aren't that bad, and real easy to adjust especially for bikepacking), but you can't add more tire clearance. I don't see why anyone would want to run less than a 40cc gravel tire on a gravel bike.

                  Comment

                  • mntlion
                    gear pimp extraordinaire
                    • Oct 2003
                    • 22525

                    #10
                    1 * if you are on day rides (unloaded) or racing the tour divide. if not go 2* its not much weigh and more gears (lower gears) are nice on day 4 when the bike is loaded.

                    bags: see what you are doing, how much gear you need, and how many days/hours out.
                    Roswheel on ebay/china is great for the price.
                    Also go see cricket at whitefish bike retreat. She rents a few bags so you can see what both fits your bike and your gear and your needs (she is past TD winner, and does a LOT of gravel riding)
                    She also does shuttles from WF to banff, and you can ride back to her place

                    If you make it to banff, I still owe you for that rocky bike (she loves it)

                    sigpic

                    Comment

                    • Whiteroom_Guardian
                      ____________________
                      • May 2008
                      • 17348

                      #11
                      Originally posted by bagtagley
                      Get something cheap and get out on it. See if you even like it. Take some short bikepacking trips and figure out what you need to carry and how you like to carry it. Seems kinda crazy to blow your wad on the ideal setup without even knowing what that is.
                      While this does make alot of sense, my deal with Knolly = I get great prices on their bikes, but I can't ride anyone other companies bikes. Every Knolly I have thrown a leg over has been totally on point though, so I am not worried.

                      Last summer I went on some road rides and then hit gravel and really enjoyed it minus the skinny 25c slicks I was riding and no ability to carry anything.
                      www.LastBestRealty.com
                      www.freeridesystems.com

                      Comment

                      • Whiteroom_Guardian
                        ____________________
                        • May 2008
                        • 17348

                        #12
                        Originally posted by mntlion
                        1 * if you are on day rides (unloaded) or racing the tour divide. if not go 2* its not much weigh and more gears (lower gears) are nice on day 4 when the bike is loaded.

                        bags: see what you are doing, how much gear you need, and how many days/hours out.
                        Roswheel on ebay/china is great for the price.
                        Also go see cricket at whitefish bike retreat. She rents a few bags so you can see what both fits your bike and your gear and your needs (she is past TD winner, and does a LOT of gravel riding)
                        She also does shuttles from WF to banff, and you can ride back to her place

                        If you make it to banff, I still owe you for that rocky bike (she loves it)
                        Badass dude, thanks for beta. After I get the kinks worked out on short rides the first bigger ride I want to do will be Bozeman to Whitefish/Glacier. Hopefully have my new passport by then and can ride into Canada if I have any juice left.
                        www.LastBestRealty.com
                        www.freeridesystems.com

                        Comment

                        • jamal
                          how did this get here
                          • Feb 2012
                          • 2188

                          #13
                          This is a good gearing calculator that lets you compare two different setups

                          The bicycle gear calculator displays graphically the gearing of derailleur gears and gear hubs. It can be used to compare different setups to find the optimal gearing for all kinds of bicycles.


                          That should show 50/34 x 11-34 vs 40 x 10-42. Click on the graphic/box with the triangles and it will let you change the settings for that one. Here it is with 46/30 cranks:

                          The bicycle gear calculator displays graphically the gearing of derailleur gears and gear hubs. It can be used to compare different setups to find the optimal gearing for all kinds of bicycles.


                          Also don't forget to consider wheel/tire size in that. I have it set for 700x40 tires.

                          In both cases I find it hard to want a double. Technically according to shimano the 11-34 cassette is the most you can use with that RX derailleur, but it's probably possible to fudge in an 11-36 or add a goat link or something. For offroad, loaded touring, that 46/30 crank and something like an 11-40 cassette would probably be nice. If you can't ride up it with that you might as well walk.

                          Originally posted by Groomer Gambler
                          Take a look at the Sutra LTD too. It can clear a 29x2.1" tire. I'm a big fan of better tire clearances on gravel bikes. Current bike just clears a 700x42 and I'd love to be able to clear more of an old school mtn bike tire around 50-55cc. I'd think if you are a larger dude bigger tires with the ability to run less air pressure would make a significant difference in comfort. You can always upgrade the brakes (mechanical brakes really aren't that bad, and real easy to adjust especially for bikepacking), but you can't add more tire clearance. I don't see why anyone would want to run less than a 40cc gravel tire on a gravel bike.
                          I really like the sutra ltd, even kind of wanted one for myself, but it's like $400 more than the topstone 105 and rove nrb, and he does't want to spend that much money. I also realized that I can just put some bags on my hardtail xc bike, which is probably lighter than a sutra and not much slower. There's another topstone that's apex 1x hydro, but it comes with a dropper for some reason. I guess they needed some reason to charge more for it than the 2x 105 bike.
                          Last edited by jamal; 04-22-2019, 12:42 PM.

                          Comment

                          • NlytendOne
                            meow
                            • Feb 2008
                            • 1602

                            #14
                            If you're doing any bikepacking, and you want to have a good time doing it, a front derailleur is a great idea. Otherwise, the 40x10-42 setup is adequate.

                            Comment

                            • mntlion
                              gear pimp extraordinaire
                              • Oct 2003
                              • 22525

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
                              Badass dude, thanks for beta. After I get the kinks worked out on short rides the first bigger ride I want to do will be Bozeman to Whitefish/Glacier. Hopefully have my new passport by then and can ride into Canada if I have any juice left.
                              she does shutles to Eureka too. Or come to banff, stay with us, and take 2-7 days to get back to WF

                              sigpic

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