Anyone else get some today...?

[Ottime]

Whiteking, the problem with a bike forecast is that it is not actually a forecast. So, there is that. To each there own.

Got some today. Finally. Been a busy week of stuff other than surf. Missed what was likely a very good day at the hole. This weather is absolutely amazing. Been in the mid 90s since Sunday. Another beach day on tap for tomorrow. Got to get my son in the water. But digging holes is almost as much fun.

PW, loving the pics. Will try to get through the few I took today.

[Ottime]

So i'm living a different dream than the fish. Raising a child, building a yard, running a home and spending time with the family, I get windows to surf. Only windows. And I take advantage of that mostly. It means some days I'm surfing slop on the wavestorm for an hour. Most days it is much better. This morning my wife stayed home to bring our son to his first day of school drop off. My window expanded in size. I would only need to pick him up. Multiple swells were subsiding, one peaking. Chest to head, plus on the the sets. Clean. Most of my session with two others; a small crowd built toward the end. Nice to get back in the water when tide, swell, wind, crowd and break were all in line. Here is to an excellent fall.

And on the 9/11 I was surfing off Franklin on a clean, beautiful autumn day. Just returned from my grandmother's funeral. We had been close. I told my boss I would be flying home on the 11th, but actually had a flight on the 10th. I just wanted a day to myself. No wind that day on the west coast either. Crisp and clear. On my drive north, I heard something about a plane flying into the first tower. I just assumed a Cessna or something. Surf was super fun combo something or other. After my surf, I drove south to Davenport, and in the old taqueria I saw the footage of the towers dropping. I had lived in Manhattan. For a bout five years. I had spent a number of early morning hours lying in the plaza between those beasts. Fuck, I thought and went back out surfing. Had to figure out how to explain to work how I got back to California. Turns out I did not get a flight home until Thursday. The surf was fun that week.

[PowerWhore7]

contest on...finals day, in shitty 2-3ft surf

[strawjack]

dig those pics powhoar

[jtran10]

contest on...finals day, in shitty 2-3ft surf

Did they make the pros sit out due to the rain?

[PowerWhore7]

dig those pics powhoar

Word, thanks dood

We had like 8 or 9 days of legit surf, I am just staring to recover.
A lost shot from last week, Rog would be proud

Did they make the pros sit out due to the rain?

Don't think so, it was just shitty surfwise around here all week. Really good mtnbiking this week though, the rain buffed everything out and it's been going off.

[whitekingsalmon]

South shore was going off today... So has the last week...and there is no beach that can compare to Waikiki...hot hot chics eeeveryyywwwhhheeeerrrrre

[Rodneyyee]

South shore was going off today... So has the last week...and there is no beach that can compare to Waikiki...hot hot chics eeeveryyywwwhhheeeerrrrre

methboy and his wife-bishop super market. almost 100% sure he was using and EBT card ? Talk about sad-This guy is as bad as Lish-who has now left town. Thank you reality.

[TomCrac]

xpost, Thought this kid was great...

[Atrain505]

About a week ago was in San Jose del Cabo baja for a week. Mini surf, but it was the only warm water, relatively close surf destination where we could use air miles and I have a ton right now.

Surf was knee to chest high. Nothing bigger, but still had a blast surfing with the lady in a bikini and in board shorts instead of the wetsuit.

Anyways...boards. Let's talk about weird boards. In general if I am on a week long trip I'll just rent boards. Cheaper, and get to try new things. Because the forecast was super small I was maybe going to rent a long board or a fish. Saw this weird looking board on the rack at costa azul. http://www.surfvulcan.com/#!small-wave/c1ty3 The vulcan polymath.

I've always been intrigued by the funky looking boards that tomo has been putting out and this thing has some similar designs so thought I'd try it since I had nothing to lose with small surf for the week. Surfed it as a quad. It was listed at 5'6 with 31 liters of volume.

After a week of surfing the first impressions is the hype around these chopped off nose parallel rail design boards is real. It was crazy fast. Noticeably faster than my short board would have been at home in similar waves. Dramatically so. Turned very well on my forehand, way better than I thought it would. Fun, long wraps. I do think the chopped off nose is a bit tough when the surf gets steeper. I had some good nose dives, before I learned to stomp on the tail on any late drop.

For a small wave board this thing kinda blew my mind. Makes me want to try more variations of similar designs.

[Long duc dong]

Glad to see everyone has been getting some. Labor Day weekend and the next weekend were awesome in the Trestles area. Last weekend was fun at the Santa Ana rivermouth. Wednesday morning I went into the office late and had a great chest high session in Newport. I found a nice little peak around 58th street with a good sandbar, and lefts that just wrapped right in. Most of the chest high ones were closing out, but some of the stomach high ones would line right up on the inside. I had a lot more fun than I thought I would.

Not much on tap this weekend.

[Ottime]

Yeah. Have not bothered to get in the past week. Small ground swells, small to moderate wind swell. Plenty if other stuff to do to get ready for winter and visits. The good news is the jet stream is energizing nicely, and with a little luck we will see our Gulf and Norpac storms moving late next week. So ready for the solid stuff. I'm over the Sumer frovel

[Long duc dong]

Yeah. Have not bothered to get in the past week. Small ground swells, small to moderate wind swell. Plenty if other stuff to do to get ready for winter and visits. The good news is the jet stream is energizing nicely, and with a little luck we will see our Gulf and Norpac storms moving late next week. So ready for the solid stuff. I'm over the Sumer frovel

That's funny, because in Orange County the summer is at least as good as the winter. We get a ton of sw and s swells, and the lefts in Newport and Trestles really line up well. Plus the water is warm and the days are long. I am also a weekend surfer now, so I don't get out much in the week. In the winter I ski a lot of weekends, so I don't get to surf as much then. Of course the Norpac delivers larger surf for you guys then the Sopac delivers for us. I am not a good surfer though, so my limit is pretty much a few feet overhead to double overhead, and soft. When it has real power at that size I stay on the beach, or look for something more west facing and smaller. I hope winter brings the juice for you guys.

One of my buddies up north said that Ocean Beach really pumped during the Labor Day weekend and the weekend after. Overhead and sheet glass.

[TomCrac]

[Ottime]

^^^^^perhaps a few lucky and a few unlucky from that forecast. Rhode Island looks well posed.

LDD, winter is way better up here. We pick up a decent amount of S-SW, but steeper swells only get picked up at a few breaks. And while town does well in the summer, the rest if the coast is exposed to afternoon winds. And a good south is maybe 4'@20.

In fall, winds tend to go slack, so the entire coast is open for surf. OB had a rare summer event (and that was a nw swell, not s) with off shore winds. Typically OB is a junk show in summer.

Autumn is the best season. A moderate NW is twice the size of a SW. 8'@20s. And it is not odd to see 10-14' swells. On the open coast, those waves are pushing past triple OH. In Capitola, east of SC, they are chest high, and Kirra like.

I dot really like soft surf. I mean, if it is head plus, that can be fine. I prefer thumping, 8-12' on the face. I enjoy riding up to about 20' faces. I used to enjoy up to 25'+. But I get fewer days. And by enjoy, I mean I paddle out. And try not to fuck up.

But in fall we have hundred if spots breaking and you get to choose the size of surf you pursue. In summer it is rare to see OH surf more than a day or two in a row. And there are way fewer spots breaking.

I love the fall. A good season will see the surf never drop below head high. You may need to hit the beach a few of those days in between swell peaks, but can usually stick to the points and reefs and find plenty of power.

Oh, and my four of my five favorite spots break on a NW. And the other one really only shines a swell or two every three summers. But if we get a 4.5@20 or more, from 205^, with no Nw wind swell in the water, the holee' sheet.

Yeah, I love fall. And now that I'm a dad, an ski less, I'm back to pushing the bigger waves again. Before he was born, (and back when it used to snow in CA), and after I discovered skiing again, I would be up in the Sierra during the midst if winter. And sprig tour season was great, cause it can be windy as fuck come spring.