Anyone else get some today...?

[P_McPoser]

Yeah, at my arm fitness I am a big fan of low tide and walking halfway out

[Tectonically_Neglected]

Wintery conditions yesterday: massive side/ offshore wind, 3degrees C, and chest+ lines rolling in. So much fun!

I'm getting better: at the beginning of the year I'd hardly catch a wave in conditions like this, due to me being to scared (waves seem pretty big when you're lying on your stomach ;-) ). I couldn't find the right spot to wait for waves or didnt dare paddle in closer to shore. Yesterday I caught a few really nice peelers, carved down the line and was close to a mini cover up.

To get an impression:

http://surfed.nl/sessions/2014/141203/

photo creds: Surfed.nl

PS Surfing is so fugging cool.

[thewon]

looks fun, TN!

[jtran10]

Dawn patrol this morning at the spot on the cliffs closest to my place (piggity, if you're around you'll know the one). Surprisingly easy paddle out through the inside, but just as I thought I was clear a big set came through and added 5-10 minutes to the paddle. Ugh. Not much of a channel at this spot, so as size keeps picking up through the weekend I think I'll need a new spot.

Had a couple fun drops, but it seems like my local gets overwhelmed over 6' or so, and closes out too quickly. Still a fun morning with offshore conditions. Yet again we're at the start of that swell where I realize I need a board for more critical, and larger, waves.

Biggest positive this morning was getting back into the headspace of more size, thinking about every move you make in the water, etc. Sounds like I'll have to sit Friday out when we get DOH (skill + equipment), but I'm off work so thinking I'll go check out LJ Cove and watch the action.

[Piggity]

^Nice, those reefs are a lot of fun. Glad you're scoring. Looks like S winds on Friday, usually means a lot of action at scripps. So if the cove isn't doing it's thing then drive up the road and check the action south of the pier, best barrel of my life there during a similar storm many moons ago. If it's a windswell/groundswell combo with S/SE winds then the barrel action will be perfecto at the right tide. I'll continue to miss out, 10 months dry docked and counting.

[Ottime]

I'm only on drydock for a week or so. Damn old man's back. Surfed Monday in lumpy, basically crappy, head high surf and over extended on a bumpy top turn. Surfed one more wave in, but knew I was done. Next day surfed popped to 9-10'@14-15s from 290^. A 12-14'@17s from 290^ rode in over that today. Watched Middles for maybe 5 minutes. One plus set came in during that time. Shot a few pics, which I hope to find some time to sort through. Best guess right now is t was a 15' peak. Scotts would have been significantly bigger, and more powerful and lined up. Mavs must have had some bombs today. Oh, and glassy as fuck the past two days. South winds come up for us overnight. Swell could increase. Almost tempted to drive to Monterey and visit the aquarium, just so I can get a view of Lovers and Boneyards. everywhere else up here will be total Victory at Sea. Hope no one drowns.

jtran, what is your biggest board? A decent 6.6 will get you into DOH, even some plus. Doubt you guys really have a need for much bigger, unless you are searching out the peaks in PV or R. Overhead. Still, not even sure how big those get. Looks for something 2L (or more) bigger than your standard shortboard. Round pin, and bigger, stiffer fins help as well. I was out last week on my 6.6 in 10-15' surf, fairly clean, and very glassy. It felt fine, even on the bigger drops. . And so much easier to turn than my 7.6.

[jtran10]

jtran, what is your biggest board? A decent 6.6 will get you into DOH, even some plus. Doubt you guys really have a need for much bigger, unless you are searching out the peaks in PV or R. Overhead. Still, not even sure how big those get. Looks for something 2L (or more) bigger than your standard shortboard. Round pin, and bigger, stiffer fins help as well. I was out last week on my 6.6 in 10-15' surf, fairly clean, and very glassy. It felt fine, even on the bigger drops. . And so much easier to turn than my 7.6.

My everyday board is a 6' 2" hybrid quad (Rusty Piranha) that I surf almost everyday here. Besides that I have a 7' something old guy board that a friend who moved away gifted me, and my log. The Piranha needs replacing soon as it's fading and likely not 100% watertight anymore, so unfortunately that's where my board money needs to go I think.

[Ottime]

How much money do you plan to spend. There is a factory board place in OC that makes and sells for about $300 a piece. No idea on quality.

Don't really know model boards, but if you can swing two boards. Sell the 7.0. Unless you are a big guy, it likely serves no purpose. Foam distribution would be wrong for bigger powerful surf. Maybe ok in lumpier softer stuff, but would feel corky in juice.

Anyway, if you have liked your Rusty, get something like that. Could even go shorter, wider, looser a bit. Then something 6.6-6.8, tighter tail, more volume, thruster.

How good of condition is the 7.0? Or looked for something well used. You won't get many days on your step up board typically, except maybe in a real good winter. Anyway, they last longer in my experience. And if you only use it once or twice a week, it can dry out between sessions.


Total Victory at Sea today. Looks awesome. Would not doubt a few find some in the deep nooks and crannies. And PG could be having a very good day.

[jtran10]

ott, don't really have a number in mind. thanks for the tips though. I should start swinging through the local shops more frequently to see what they have used for sale. This local place generally has a ton of boards, but condition can be iffy: http://www.coconutpeets.com/

[Ottime]

And if you don't already have some basic fiberglass skills, find some. A little skill can make your bigger, less used boards last a long long time. My 8'4" is going on two decades and still rides te same as she was designed for.

[Tectonically_Neglected]

Another winterish surf session @ 4degr C and strong SW winds that added to the wind chill! Still got some super nice shoulder - HH walls. Super stoked as I made more progress today and did my first (kinda) real cut back (I know, I'm still way, way kook but having a ton of fun all the same :-) )

Even got caught on film today!

http://www.surfed.nl/sessions/2014/141214/

(Pics courtesy of surfed.nl)

(I'm the guy with the white sleeves/ red legs wetsuit)

[Ottime]

Sweet. It is always fun to get a few pics. I learned a while back that I always hold my hand like a kid playing guns. You guys are hard core. And who gives a shit about how much a kook you are. It is about having fun.

[supermodel159]

Lots of waves down here, but dirty water from the recent storm runoff.

[Ottime]

^^^^I know a few folks who headed your way to avoid the storm surf here last Wed/Thur/Fri. Another solid swell is hitting right now, but byt the looks of the buoy winds last night, fully expect more storm surf today.

[supermodel159]

^ Those days were all good surf-wise. Likely they scored.