Climbing Stoke

**ex-powderbroker** · 07-18-2020, 05:34 PM

Climbing Stoke

buddy showed me his new secret spot. about 25 more lines left to clean.... mostly wide to remind me how much i suck.

this one was sweet. the ‘granite’ was kind of bleached like a coral. but bullet hard.

there are some fingers. i can’t wait to throw that log off the top.

and at least one warmup to pick off

stopped to tr solo on the way home but some kids gave me a belay. can’t complain.

**ex-powderbroker** · 07-26-2020, 05:04 AM

hanging out on this slab by a stream and a nice crew. big lake a few minutes up and some big routes in your face. bugs are way down. 10/10, would crag again.

**subtle plague** · 07-26-2020, 09:26 AM

Another day in the "magic wood".
Some fun technical bleau style arrete.
7B /V7ish (felt easy).
Very cool moves. And no one around because it's a non topo sector. (while the main sectors had about 200-300 or more people from all over the world.)

**ex-powderbroker** · 07-31-2020, 03:41 PM

best single pitch of 10a in quebec

**ex-powderbroker** · 08-02-2020, 07:54 AM

new swimming hole

by some bolts

i’d take another six months of this

**zartagen** · 08-02-2020, 08:41 AM

Got out and climbed the diamond on Long's Peak 3 weeks ago. First time up the casual route and, despite the massive traffic jam (on a Tuesday), it was one of my favorite climbs of all time. We soloed up the north chimney to broadway and then enjoyed every move all the way up the casual route. The lead group was riding the struggle bus, flailing on every pitch, so we were waiting 30 minutes at every belay. Ended up being a dark to dark 17 hour day.

Photos (sorry about the tiny, low res photos, blame the tapatalk app): sunrise at chasm view, alpenglow from chasm lake, soloing 5.4, 5.7 traverse pitch, looking down our 4th pitch (5.8 dihedral)

**ex-powderbroker** · 08-02-2020, 10:13 AM

fkna stunning!

**DolphinSki** · 08-02-2020, 02:57 PM

Awesome!!

**ex-powderbroker** · 08-03-2020, 04:15 PM

Climbing Stoke

one more from the weekend of my buddy not from my iphone.

**yeahman** · 08-03-2020, 05:10 PM

Originally posted by ml242

one more from the weekend of my buddy not from my iphone.

Very nice, that looks thin.

Originally posted by zartagen

Got out and climbed the diamond on Long's Peak 3 weeks ago.

Great pics, always wanted to do the Casual Route but never got around to it. Read today that some guy died up there (yesterday?), slipped and fell off Broadway while third classing to the base of the route. Damn. It's that unroped shit that will get you. Approaches and descents. Anyway, nice work, congrats.

**ex-powderbroker** · 08-08-2020, 07:34 AM

Climbing Stoke

i took a shot of this group heading to the top of the l’aiguillé yesterday. i had met them an hour before, a very good climber was taking up his two baby climber friends for the sunset. the route they chose is a wide chimney (that looks incredibly committing to me at 5.2) to this 5.5ish slab that takes a .75 over the course of thirty or so feet. Last time i went up there i was puckered but they topped out with a 12 pack of brews just before sunset with plans just to enjoy the air for a few hours. Watching their high fives at the top was one of the raddest things i’ve seen in awhile.

ah damn. didn’t realize i was around the corner of the FFA of zébrée. 4th ascent, among the hardest trad lines in the east (world?). this girl is so tough:

Emilie Pellerin on Instagram: "La Zébrée, 5.14a Trad 🦓💥BAM! Can't believe I sent it! Sérieux j'y crois pas! 🤯🙃 13 years ago, the blue-hair-metalhead-me walked underneath that testpiece. I dreamed that, one day, I would be the one who's up there climbing it. Took a while, but I did! Officially got the most authentic ascent of the route... climbed it in its usual state: WET! 😅 Sometimes the odds are against you, but it doesn't mean that you don't stand a chance... it only makes you believe that you don't, thus lower your expectations & stress level - just to help you send it 🤣 @stmicheljerome @_alexafay and I walked up to the route (or should we call it a waterfall?) we laughed at it being just impossible in these conditions 😅 Well, funny enough, I swam up it like a champ, slid off foot holds, fought off rugs and sponges on the go, it was all but gracious... 😂 but I held on... 🙃 It marks a personal milestone in my climbing life, a one which I would never have achieved without the support of my friends and family. 😉😊❤ Thanks to the wonderful people who opened up the path for this to be possible: 1972 - FA (A2) Alain Haunault ~1990 - Almost free (5.13d-A0) François Roy 2003 - Pinkpoint(pre-placed gear): @beaulieu.jeff 2008 - FFA: @jpouellet 2008 - repeted by Sly 2020 (july) - repeted by @julienboum Thanks @arcteryx for believing in me 😝🤘 📷 by Witek Slusarczyk"

https://www.instagram.com/p/CDnBg4mjSVW/?igshid=1si83qzt5kbif

1,645 likes, 147 comments - emclimber on August 7, 2020: "La Zébrée, 5.14a Trad 🦓💥BAM! Can't believe I sent it! Sérieux j'y crois pas! 🤯🙃 13 years ago, the blue-hair-metalhead-me walked underneath that testpiece. I dreamed that, one day, I would be the one who's up there climbing it. Took a while, but I did! Officially got the most authentic ascent of the route... climbed it in its usual state: WET! 😅 Sometimes the odds are against you, but it doesn't mean that you don't stand a chance... it only makes you believe that you don't, thus lower your expectations & stress level - just to help you send it 🤣 @stmicheljerome @_alexafay and I walked up to the route (or should we call it a waterfall?) we laughed at it being just impossible in these conditions 😅 Well, funny enough, I swam up it like a champ, slid off foot holds, fought off rugs and sponges on the go, it was all but gracious... 😂 but I held on... 🙃 It marks a personal milestone in my climbing life, a one which I would never have achieved without the support of my friends and family. 😉😊❤ Thanks to the wonderful people who opened up the path for this to be possible: 1972 - FA (A2) Alain Haunault ~1990 - Almost free (5.13d-A0) François Roy 2003 - Pinkpoint(pre-placed gear): @beaulieu.jeff 2008 - FFA: @jpouellet 2008 - repeted by Sly 2020 (july) - repeted by @julienboum Thanks @arcteryx for believing in me 😝🤘 📷 by Witek Slusarczyk".

**ex-powderbroker** · 08-15-2020, 05:38 PM

MIL gets on a rope for the first time at 72 in shawinigan

climbed Michael Ward (5.8 in val david) yesterday. it was named after the hillary team doctor who made the first ascent while working in montreal. did not find any of his old pitons rumored to be en route but the view from the top is probably almost as good as the early 60’s:

what will tomorrow bring?

**ex-powderbroker** · 08-22-2020, 05:55 PM

this was fun. i did three laps and turned it over to the guy after me who whipped on the piton at the crux. yeesh

**dfinn** · 08-24-2020, 10:24 AM

**subtle plague** · 08-28-2020, 10:55 AM

We took a break from surfing and cruised some mellow perfect sandstone here in Ireland. And I made some FAs (probably not because the guide is 7 years old).
1 traverses the sloper lip. SD from good ledge. Then to the lip and left. 6A+/B ish.
2. Straight from crimps via good crack. into the lip traverse. Adds another 6A single move. 6B+?
And 3 is kinda hard. Traverse below lip on small slopey crimps. Without juggy crack from 2. Same start as 2. Probably 7Aish. Couldn't do it. Tomorrow.
Pics.
Wife in a 5 arete.
Me in the 6A wall.
FA (??) shield.

Climbing Stoke

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