Climbing Stoke

[Rossymcg]

Some UK eastern grit, Stanage edge (popular end) Pete Whittacre and Hazel Findleys play ground. 1st time out for me since beginning of March. Ticked off some of the real classic easier routes which i'd normally walk by when climbing fit. Had a real good afternoon

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[rod9301]

Top-roping, at a popular crag, on a less-than-vertical climb, with >30m of rope out. I don’t know anyone that would anchor the belayer with just the first two of those unless there was an extreme weight difference. Let alone with all of those components in these pics. Objective hazards are so extremely low in this and similar scenarios, and there would be numerous ways to self-rescue in the event lightening strikes.

Do you routinely anchor yourself to the ground when cragging single pitch climbs?

*edit to say: Interceptor looks amazing! Wish I had the fitness.

No, butt i climb with my wife and she's lighter.

But i was pulled forward a few times when she took a decent fall.

But i always look around to makes sure i can anchor to escape the belay if needed.

And i wasn't commenting on the photo itself, just in general

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[criscam]

fuck yeah!! what'd you get on at city?

i love climbing with kids - i started with my dad when i was 11 and it just means the world to me. even if he's scared of heights now (which is a normal, rational fear), those experiences at CoR are gonna be meaningful memories for a really long time.

we did mystery achievement, adolescent, twighlight, and big time at Castle Rocks. i'd like to say we took it easy as it was my wife's first time lead belaying but after an extended break from climbing when kids were young, I just don't have the mindset for leading anything harder these days. maybe i'll get back there as kids/wife progress but am happy just to be on the rock more now.

I realize that he's belaying a smaller kid, but i get nervous seeing a belayer that's not anchored.

When the climber is bigger, it's easy to pull the belayer up. Plus it makes it really hard to escape the belay in case of an accident.

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I agree with you but like SnS said, between the size difference, the nature of the route and rope drag it def wasn't an issue. he did belay my wife one or twice and I was right there holding on to his harness esp on the lowering.

[criscam]

fuck yeah!! what'd you get on at city?

i love climbing with kids - i started with my dad when i was 11 and it just means the world to me. even if he's scared of heights now (which is a normal, rational fear), those experiences at CoR are gonna be meaningful memories for a really long time.

we did mystery achievement, adolescent, twighlight, and big time at Castle Rocks. i'd like to say we took it easy as it was my wife's first time lead belaying but after an extended break from climbing when kids were young, I just don't have the mindset for leading anything harder these days. maybe i'll get back there as kids/wife progress but am happy just to be on the rock more now.

I realize that he's belaying a smaller kid, but i get nervous seeing a belayer that's not anchored.

When the climber is bigger, it's easy to pull the belayer up. Plus it makes it really hard to escape the belay in case of an accident.

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I agree with you but like SnS said, between the size difference, the nature of the route and rope drag it def wasn't an issue. he did belay my wife one or twice and I was right there holding on to his harness esp on the lowering.

[Boissal]

huh, yeah, it's been so long since i've spent a ton of time up at upper breadloaves. the one line i rly wanna get on up there is INTERCEPTOR, but i'm too much of a ninny for that.

Interceptor gobbles gear, just get on it and bring doubles in #2s through #4s, you'll be on TR the whole time. Tape up though, the fucker has teeth. And make sure not to place a piece close to the lip, the anchor is a ways back on the slab and if the rope gets in the crack it will catch that last piece and push it into oblivion or rotate it and pinch your rope. The fall is super clean, if you absolutely need to place gear make sure it's sitting against a crystal and can't walk... I spent 20 minutes shoulder deep in that thing fishing out a #2 with a couple of nut tools, no fun.

[tgapp]

Interceptor gobbles gear, just get on it and bring doubles in #2s through #4s, you'll be on TR the whole time. Tape up though, the fucker has teeth. And make sure not to place a piece close to the lip, the anchor is a ways back on the slab and if the rope gets in the crack it will catch that last piece and push it into oblivion or rotate it and pinch your rope. The fall is super clean, if you absolutely need to place gear make sure it's sitting against a crystal and can't walk... I spent 20 minutes shoulder deep in that thing fishing out a #2 with a couple of nut tools, no fun.

ha! thanks for the beta, i'll definitely use a hex or some shit at the lip. and yeah, honestly, i have a fighting chance on interceptor right now, but i really want the onsight. same goes for bongeater. i'm running out of mid/hard 10's (aka excuses to not get on interceptor) at city though, so i gotta step up to the plate sooner or later.

[Boissal]

ha! thanks for the beta, i'll definitely use a hex or some shit at the lip. and yeah, honestly, i have a fighting chance on interceptor right now, but i really want the onsight. same goes for bongeater. i'm running out of mid/hard 10's (aka excuses to not get on interceptor) at city though, so i gotta step up to the plate sooner or later.

Have you ventured on the outskirts a bit? There are endless hard 10s that see 0 traffic because they require more walking than the inner city classics and are equally good. Beef Jello and Heartbreaker are good prep for Interceptor, short and steep hand cracks. Tape is your friend on both, lack of traffic means mad amounts of grit...

[tgapp]

Have you ventured on the outskirts a bit? There are endless hard 10s that see 0 traffic because they require more walking than the inner city classics and are equally good. Beef Jello and Heartbreaker are good prep for Interceptor, short and steep hand cracks. Tape is your friend on both, lack of traffic means mad amounts of grit...

haven't done beef jello yet (it's on the list), but i have done heartbreaker - that plays to my strengths nicely (small hands). i also haven't done harvest or brown flake, but i consider those to be in a league of their own (and substantially harder/more intimidating than interceptor)

[ex-powderbroker]

another good day at val david. experimented with top rope soloing so i could practice jamming but spent the time fighting my gear.

still fun on bloody hand:



got on jadis as well. in the running for hardest climbs at the time (10c in the early 50’s)



wood thrush eggs in the cliff, mom came over after i touched the ground.



a girl on the always fun aiguille:




climbing is fun

does anyone know a good list of important climbs by difficulty and year besides this?

https://web.archive.org/web/20180617125903/https://web.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/hard.htm

[ex-powderbroker]

Climbing Stoke



one hatched so far. poor little guy didn’t look too well. i am taking my quest to jam better somewhere else for awhile to leave them alone.


i’ve been so obsessed with cracks, i forgot how much i liked face climbing

[ex-powderbroker]

really enjoying spending the last couple
of days at this cliff.

[ex-powderbroker]

almost fist. tough size!

[tgapp]

[ATTACH]334771[/ATTACH]

almost fist. tough size!

heh, well done! and decently long too. how do you feel about cams in poured concrete? and did you lower off or downclimb it?

looks like you're placing #3's, which is shit for my small hands too. fucking upside down teacups. i can do them just fine but not my favorite, not by a long shot.

[MakersTeleMark]

At my college which required a year long thesis, once you defended in front of your committee you got to ring the bell. It was about 3 stories up and I stemmed my way up and beat the shit out of it being the first person to ever graduate in 3 years. The downclimb solo was spicy.



I also had a bunch of a4 5 story pure hooking routes in the brick on campus. Occasionally I would place a shitty rivet in the grout to make other people try them, but it was basically if you can't tread lightly, you break your back. I really in a sick part of me enjoyed setting those at night after a few beers.

Gear list was 2 talons, 1 fish hook, and a nut to cinch the rivet. I was a little ott back then.

[ex-powderbroker]

the cams seemed to hold. the concrete is kind of shitty though which is why every highway in montreal has been essentially torn down and rebuilt over the last five years (except this one). We had to down climb to retrieve the gear.

There were quite a few cracks to choose from. this was the most ‘outside’ while being the least visible, at least at this size. and no homeless storage around.

if someone wanted to climb 6’s, there were some great opportunities that have probably never been done, and this thing to a roof crack, to a top out on the highway.