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  • Rossymcg
    i want 2be a JONG forever
    • Jan 2012
    • 1393

    #721
    whats that hand move after the heal hook? one of the little chalked pockets?

    Sent from my SM-G973F using TGR Forums mobile app
    i dont kare i carnt spell or youse punktuation properlee, im on a skiing forum

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    • ex-powderbroker
      expert in residence
      • Sep 1999
      • 17164

      #722
      i really like sandstone, wish there was more of it around here.
      j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

      Comment

      • subtle plague
        <== dickwaving forbidden
        • Oct 2003
        • 6151

        #723
        Sand stone is the best.

        I only Bouldered a few days in the peak district and in Scotland.

        Both sandstone areas because I'm a connaisseur. (peak and torridon in Scotland)
        sandstone bouldering is the best, by far. Gneiss is pretty cool too. Granite is a bit rough and limestone is rope only.

        I go to bleau as often as possible (actually I would be there right now if this covid shit hadnt happened ... Easter holidays and perfect weather) and Rocklands was pretty cool too.

        Edit: the move after the heel goes to the sloper rail with the left hand again, right still in the underling. Match the rail with the right hand (the little 30cm wide and 1cm deep slopy streak with chalk) with a desperate right heel in the roof to avoid swing, then left hand into the deep two finger pocket(the right of the two obvious ones) , right hand further right. Swing left heel into right heel, go to good three finger pocket 20cm below the top with the right hand . Stem left hand where the left heel has been and go to the top with the right hand. Reposition. Then easy mantle.
        Last edited by subtle plague; 04-07-2020, 11:40 AM.
        It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

        Comment

        • Rossymcg
          i want 2be a JONG forever
          • Jan 2012
          • 1393

          #724
          We've only got grit and lime round here. Its all i know intimately. Grits amazing when its a frosty winters day, the sun comes out burns it off with a gentle breeze.
          You missed out not trad climbing in the Peaks, We have a lot of short routes but some real quality stuff.
          Not done font will do this year if things change, missed so much skiing and got 4 pre paid chunnel crossing needing using up.

          Sent from my SM-G973F using TGR Forums mobile app
          i dont kare i carnt spell or youse punktuation properlee, im on a skiing forum

          Comment

          • ex-powderbroker
            expert in residence
            • Sep 1999
            • 17164

            #725
            let’s see some peaks! and lakes, if ya got em!
            j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

            Comment

            • Rossymcg
              i want 2be a JONG forever
              • Jan 2012
              • 1393

              #726
              Originally posted by ml242
              let’s see some peaks! and lakes, if ya got em!
              I've actually got no photos of interest. Once lock down ends ill start taking some and add some UK flavour to the thread.
              Weather's great now for climbing here after a disastrous autumn and winter.

              Sent from my SM-G973F using TGR Forums mobile app
              i dont kare i carnt spell or youse punktuation properlee, im on a skiing forum

              Comment

              • subtle plague
                <== dickwaving forbidden
                • Oct 2003
                • 6151

                #727
                Well good news. My shoulder is not destroyed, but I should have taken a break right away. Just a a strained muscle. (delta apparently) which I didn't let heal.

                I should have had a 2 week break right after it starting annoying me. (who would have thought? )
                It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

                Comment

                • dfinn
                  pura vida
                  • Mar 2006
                  • 5749

                  #728
                  Hadn’t done this in a while. Still very enjoyable.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  Comment

                  • Boissal
                    "touring guy"
                    • Jan 2009
                    • 4429

                    #729
                    ^^^ Mexican? Nice route to get back in the game, that bottom is always so fun!
                    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

                    Comment

                    • dfinn
                      pura vida
                      • Mar 2006
                      • 5749

                      #730
                      Originally posted by Boissal
                      ^^^ Mexican? Nice route to get back in the game, that bottom is always so fun!
                      Losing my religion and Floyd the Barber. Nice little reintro to friction and balance.

                      Comment

                      • Boissal
                        "touring guy"
                        • Jan 2009
                        • 4429

                        #731
                        Originally posted by dfinn
                        Losing my religion and Floyd the Barber. Nice little reintro to friction and balance.
                        Oh. That beak of rock looker's right did seem out of place.
                        "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

                        Comment

                        • ex-powderbroker
                          expert in residence
                          • Sep 1999
                          • 17164

                          #732
                          i miss climbing so much. i can't believe i haven't been able to get any days on rock this year. nothing else is going to wipe away the stain of my worst and lightest ski season since 2004. i got a flapper from doing dumb dynamic shit on my hangboard yesterday, fuck.
                          j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

                          Comment

                          • Boissal
                            "touring guy"
                            • Jan 2009
                            • 4429

                            #733
                            Originally posted by ml242
                            i miss climbing so much. i can't believe i haven't been able to get any days on rock this year. nothing else is going to wipe away the stain of my worst and lightest ski season since 2004. i got a flapper from doing dumb dynamic shit on my hangboard yesterday, fuck.
                            I'm starting to miss it to. I've been going through a weird phase the past couple seasons where I have a really hard time getting excited about existing routes and I'm only interested in developing my own lines. After a month of not touching rock or even plastic I'm crazing sunny limestone pitches and clipping bolts on the most poorly engineered and chossy lines...
                            "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

                            Comment

                            • Rossymcg
                              i want 2be a JONG forever
                              • Jan 2012
                              • 1393

                              #734
                              no where to climb. Just knock up a home wall like this,Click image for larger version

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                              Sent from my SM-G973F using TGR Forums mobile app
                              i dont kare i carnt spell or youse punktuation properlee, im on a skiing forum

                              Comment

                              • subtle plague
                                <== dickwaving forbidden
                                • Oct 2003
                                • 6151

                                #735
                                Sorry no action shots..., but I like it when you hike up to a Boulder with one pad and still have this crash zone. Stash pads for the win.
                                7C/8A, V9/11 depending when you top out. Not a real traverse because it goes up as well.
                                Crazy Hooks and power precision moves.
                                Second Pic is from a friend who was there the other day.

                                Thrid Pic is from a different area in the black forest. Some cleaning after this week of rain maybe.... FA will be mine! Click image for larger version

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                                It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

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