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Thread: Ask the experts

  1. #12401
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    241
    Quote Originally Posted by smmokan View Post
    I can't find this anywhere... but which Park Tool spoke wrench do I need for the thicker aluminum I-9 spokes?
    Should be the black one, SW-0.

  2. #12402
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
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    4,927
    Quote Originally Posted by smmokan View Post
    I can't find this anywhere... but which Park Tool spoke wrench do I need for the thicker aluminum I-9 spokes?
    3.23mm, or "0" or "15 gauge" nipple size, or Park Tool "Black"

  3. #12403
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
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    Three-O-Three
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    15,477

  4. #12404
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Posts
    96
    What’s the best value on brakes going right now? I’ve been on Shimanos forever but I think my previous gen XT four pistons are giving up the ghost. Prefer mineral oil generally because I’m clumsy and do my own bleeding but open to whatever. My default is just to pick up a set of the deore 4 pistons and call it good.

  5. #12405
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Mexico 2.0
    Posts
    821
    Quote Originally Posted by Abies View Post
    What’s the best value on brakes going right now? I’ve been on Shimanos forever but I think my previous gen XT four pistons are giving up the ghost. Prefer mineral oil generally because I’m clumsy and do my own bleeding but open to whatever. My default is just to pick up a set of the deore 4 pistons and call it good.
    I just got a set of TRP Slate T4s that seem pretty decent. Feel is pretty similar to Deore/SLX, for a little cheaper ($120/side TRP vs $160/side SLX). They're on a rigid bike with XC tires though, so maybe not a great basis for comparison.

  6. #12406
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    the tinfoil aisle
    Posts
    1,534
    Quote Originally Posted by mildbill. View Post
    I'm at my wits' end - what is binding my drivetrain?
    Thanks for all the suggestions.

    I should have mentioned i'm in nor cal and was dealing with very fine, dusty conditions coincidental with my drivetrain binding issues.

    We got about 1" of rain, 2 days of mud and a week of dust-free [insert bro-speak term for quality surface conditions].

    After 2x thorough cleaning following the muddy days and now no longer riding with a fine coat of dust on the bike at all times, things seem to be running quite smoothly. Off to the queso thread for me I guess.

    Or was it all psychosomatic and i was sick of the dust and stoked now?

  7. #12407
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Sandy
    Posts
    5,236
    Quote Originally Posted by Abies View Post
    What’s the best value on brakes going right now? I’ve been on Shimanos forever but I think my previous gen XT four pistons are giving up the ghost. Prefer mineral oil generally because I’m clumsy and do my own bleeding but open to whatever. My default is just to pick up a set of the deore 4 pistons and call it good.
    Gotta say I've been in the mineral oil boat 'cause I'm clumsy camp too, but the Sram Bleeding Edge system is pretty slick and keeps the mess down.
    When life gives you haters, make haterade.

  8. #12408
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Canada's Tophat
    Posts
    216
    Quote Originally Posted by Abies View Post
    What’s the best value on brakes going right now? I’ve been on Shimanos forever but I think my previous gen XT four pistons are giving up the ghost. Prefer mineral oil generally because I’m clumsy and do my own bleeding but open to whatever. My default is just to pick up a set of the deore 4 pistons and call it good.
    If you're looking for true budget, can't go wrong with non-series Shimano brakes like the MT520. Put some Galfer pads in them and they can hang with the best. If you don't need 4-piston, the Formula Curas are a good option. I've been running them on my hardtail, and they're just a simple, well made brake that works well. On the higher end, I still think Hayes Dominion A4s reign supreme, unless you really like the feel of Shimano/Sram. Dominions are DOT tho, and I do find that the pistons require more cleaning than other brakes.

  9. #12409
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Posts
    96
    I think budget to me means 200 dollars for both ends would be sweet, not including rotors, but I’d go up to 300 if there’s a good case for it. Thanks for all the suggestions.


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  10. #12410
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    The better LA
    Posts
    2,552
    Quote Originally Posted by Abies View Post
    I think budget to me means 200 dollars for both ends would be sweet, not including rotors, but I’d go up to 300 if there’s a good case for it. Thanks for all the suggestions.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Pretty sure anything below that level will be a big drop from your XTs.
    Maybe used XT or SLX?
    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  11. #12411
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Posts
    96
    Quote Originally Posted by Roxtar View Post
    Pretty sure anything below that level will be a big drop from your XTs.
    Maybe used XT or SLX?
    To be fair when I wrote that I hadn’t really done much research lol, I just figured I could find something good on mega sale right now. 200+ an end feels steep to me though

    I think it’s my calipers that are cooked (leaky pistons) so does anyone know if it’s fine to mate my XT M8000 series levers to current gen Shimano calipers?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  12. #12412
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    3,186
    Magura Trail brakes are pretty cheap and quite good. They are the ones with 2 piston rear and 4 piston front.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  13. #12413
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    14,036
    Code rsc's can be had for under $200 / brake. They're not the *best* brake, but they're a solid option that's easy to service and bleed.

  14. #12414
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Pagosa Springs CO
    Posts
    1,018
    Anyone have a tip for compensating for the reduction in pressure in a fork due to colder temps.
    Half way through a ride I noticed my sag had about doubled. I know I could just add some air, but I'm looking for something more precise.
    I found a chart for fat bike tire pressure that tells you starting pressure and resultant pressure based on temps. Anything like that for shocks?
    Thanks.

  15. #12415
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    14,036
    Quote Originally Posted by Powder Ho View Post
    Anyone have a tip for compensating for the reduction in pressure in a fork due to colder temps.
    Half way through a ride I noticed my sag had about doubled. I know I could just add some air, but I'm looking for something more precise.
    I found a chart for fat bike tire pressure that tells you starting pressure and resultant pressure based on temps. Anything like that for shocks?
    Thanks.
    Guess and check. It's going to vary a fair amount depending on the fork, how cold it is, how much air temps warm up while you're riding, how hard you're working the suspension and how much it heats up on the ride, among various other factors.

  16. #12416
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Pagosa Springs CO
    Posts
    1,018
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Guess and check. It's going to vary a fair amount depending on the fork, how cold it is, how much air temps warm up while you're riding, how hard you're working the suspension and how much it heats up on the ride, among various other factors.
    Yeah, I was pretty sure I was over thinking it.
    I' m going to try leaving my bike outside for a while before a ride and pump up to my normal pressure.

  17. #12417
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    14,036
    Quote Originally Posted by Powder Ho View Post
    Yeah, I was pretty sure I was over thinking it.
    I' m going to try leaving my bike outside for a while before a ride and pump up to my normal pressure.
    Go a little under your normal pressure. It'll warm up a bit on the ride.

  18. #12418
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Three-O-Three
    Posts
    15,477
    I'm not really tied into trainers these days, but I've been thinking about getting one for the winter. Is there a such thing as a "dumb" (not smart) trainer anymore? I have zero interest in subscribing to a monthly program and riding with my virtual friends, I basically just want to ride my bike and control the resistance.

  19. #12419
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    35,648
    For a 'dumb' trainer, I greatly prefer variable resistance rollers.
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  20. #12420
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    2,468
    There’s usually several Kinetic trainers available on Craigslist for less than $100.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  21. #12421
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by smmokan View Post
    I'm not really tied into trainers these days, but I've been thinking about getting one for the winter. Is there a such thing as a "dumb" (not smart) trainer anymore? I have zero interest in subscribing to a monthly program and riding with my virtual friends, I basically just want to ride my bike and control the resistance.
    Winter trainer = fatbike

  22. #12422
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,963
    Quote Originally Posted by MCS5280 View Post
    Winter trainer = fatbike
    You know those nightmares where you're stuck in invisible quicksand and you try to run and you move super slowly?

    That's fatbiking.

  23. #12423
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    35,648
    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon3 View Post
    You know those nightmares where you're stuck in invisible quicksand and you try to run and you move super slowly?

    That's fatbiking.
    Not here, you can easily drift into groomed corners at 25mph+ on some of our trails (with as much climbing and descending as you want). In fact, a few KOM’s are in the winter when the rocks are buried. Conditions have to be just right.
    But yeah, fresh snow, badly groomed trails, warm snow, and it is like you describe. Don’t go out on those days.
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  24. #12424
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    2,679
    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    For a 'dumb' trainer, I greatly prefer variable resistance rollers.
    Will echo this! Before buying a smart trainer I spent winters on resistance rollers. EMotion were probably biggest back then but expensive. I bought a set a TACX Galaxia with little rockers so you could stand and pedal easier and attach a Minoura mag resistance to it, worked very well.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  25. #12425
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Pagosa Springs CO
    Posts
    1,018
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Go a little under your normal pressure. It'll warm up a bit on the ride.
    I just read an article with a Cane Creek suspension tech who said 1%/10°f in temp change is a good rule of thumb.
    He also said that the shock is affected more than the fork because of the smaller volume.

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