Ask the experts

[bennymac]

The shock will work as long as it is indeed 190x45mm. Your shock has eyelet bearing cups that you'll need to remove from the other to install on the sidluxe, but other than that it's just a bit of figuring out the external routing. I saw on Rocky Mtn's insta that one of their athletes also on maxxis factory team has been on an element with an externally routed lockout cable, maybe go check that out for ideas.

Thanks! Will check that out

[ASmileyFace]

How to check air pressure with your shock pump: as you are threading the chuck into place, before you get far enough so the valve opens, pump some air into the pump.

If you hear it leak you haven't threaded it on far enough so add a turn or so until it holds air and then get the pressure as close to what you think is in the shock as possible. Then thread the chuck on the rest of the way, watching to see if the needle moves up or down when the valve opens.

Up means you had more pressure in the shock and down means you had less. If it doesn't move far then you've got a good estimate. If it moves 10psi or something you might have been off by 3x the change (depends on your pump and shock volumes).

Obviously not deadly accurate, but an easy way to have a good sense of what's going on with your seals and if you need to get precise with it you can, you'd just need to calibrate the whole thing (and practice) by setting the pressure and checking it immediately after (since the pump will close the valve and leave the pressure set as you start to remove it/before breaking the seal).

Going to give this a shot today and see. Appreciate it!

[toast2266]

So I did this. One ride so far and things are much improved. Still have chain slap but seems less? The big thing is the loud clunk of the B-stop bottoming out when it swings back is gone. Shifting, if anything, is better, definitely not worse though.

Pedal washer in between the B-plate and the derailleur body, super easy. Fits perfect and is only 0.8mm thick so you don't lose much purchase on the hanger threads. Kept all other bits (retainer o-rings). I used red loctite as always still. Make sure your B-tension is set before you start, then after, you'll have to adjust your derailleur limits and indexing a bit to account for the +0.8mm offset.

I tried dude's way from the video with the washer under the axle bolt head and it did nothing. The AXS derailleurs have a different bolt/axle setup, actually WAY easier since all you have to do is pop of the B-plate. That video overall is kinda goofy, seemed to me he said a lot of kooky stuff and some just plain wrong things too? Later I found a reference to my way with SRAM/AXS on MTBR I think. He's right that cabled derailleurs would benefit from this too for sure. There is an increased risk of derailleur damage because it won't readily swing backward from a rock strike. Mine's pretty tight but it will move with a decent amount of force. Should be able to adjust this by varying the torque you use on the derailleur axle bolt.

Awesome - thanks for the intel! Might have to give it a go if I can rustle up a cheap axs derailleur.

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[VTskibum]

Any tips on getting a RS Pike DJ air shaft pressed in more so I can re-install retaining ring? Can't seem to get it in enough to clear the indents that the retaining ring use. Top cap has been removed, so seemingly only resistance is between the top of airshaft and bottom where retaining ring goes? Any tricks I'm not thinking of?

[Blaster]

Question for the suspension experts.


I have a fairly used but functioning 2017 Pike and Monarch Debonair RT3 that aren’t running as smooth as they once did. A new to me bike isn’t in the cards right now and my current ride does everything I need it to. Any input from the masses on what is worth doing or not worth spending money on is appreciated.


Option 1 is to just take them into the local bike shop for a full rebuild on both for $350 ish.


Option 2 is to do the wrenching myself but also upgrade to the Charger 2.1 damper and debonair air spring in the fork. Upgrading the damper saves me a bit of work on actually rebuilding the damper and should be better than the original damper.


Option 3. Is just do the 50 hour services myself for cheap and save up until I can drop more on nicer newer suspension.


Once all parts and new tools I need to get are said for option 2 basically the same price as option 1 but has a new fork damper and air spring. I’ve handily done the 50 hour fork service before as well as the air can service on the monarch so figuring out the shock damper service will be a step up in complexity but should be doable. Plus I don’t mind wrenching on my own bike.


Thanks

[SchralphMacchio]

Those all sound like reasonable options depending on how long you foresee owning the bike. Another thing is the Monarch RC3, if you can get one for cheap in your size.
I am actually running A1 and A2 Pike Charger 1s on both of my bikes, and I used to have a Debonair RT3 on my Bronson. The A1/A2 Pikes are ancient compared to modern forks (yes I have demoed new ones including the very impressive Fox 38) but they still work for me. A competent mechanic can breathe new life into those forks as is without a newer damper … and I feel the Charger 2 is probably more of an upgrade coming from a Motion Control (Revelation) than a Charger 1.
I also can’t use a Debonair air spring due to my CSU being a DPA on both forks. But that is also a cheap upgrade and a 5 minute job, so you might as well do that.
So with the RT3 shock … it has a small oil reservoir that packs up after long descents. The RC3 is much smoother over high speed rubble and holds up over long descents. If you can get one cheap I would go for it.
In summary, I vote for Debonair air spring for fork, rebuild damper; find if there are cheap RC3s or other similar piggyback shocks out there in your size.

[Gerome]

So I got a new fox factory 38 for my Santa Cruz nomad. I’m feeling timid about cutting the steer tube. I have a hacksaw, an angle grinder, and I’m happy to go buy a pipe cutter. What should I use to cut the steer tube to length? Or should I just have a bike shop install it?


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[sfotex]

So I got a new fox factory 38 for my Santa Cruz nomad. I’m feeling timid about cutting the steer tube. I have a hacksaw, an angle grinder, and I’m happy to go buy a pipe cutter. What should I use to cut the steer tube to length? Or should I just have a bike shop install it?


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I never liked the pipe cutter because the flare out is a PITA to clean up. Get a nice new metal hacksaw blade and make or buy a guide. Measure 6x, cut once and go slow. Also get a star nut install too, they are a PITA to straight without a tool.. you can do it without the tool, but it's like a 30sec job with the right tool.

[teledad]

I usually just clamp it in a vise and use an old stem as a guide for the hacksaw. You can also use a hose clamp or two, or a few wraps of electrical tape. You can always file it down a little when you're done if it's not perfectly square. +1 on getting a star nut setter (or just asking a shop to do it).

[XXX-er]

It doesnt even matter if the cut isnt perfectly square to the tube cuz nothing is going to touch it, just don't cut it too short

In the past I think I've used a deep socket to instal the starnut

[Gerome]

Ok, thanks for the tips. Hose clamps, electrical tape and a new hacksaw blade. I don’t have a vice. And I’ll look into the star nut install too.


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[dcpnz]

Lots of ways to get the job done just fine. I’ve found a pipe cutter to be super quick, accurate and easy and unlike sfotex I don’t think cleaning up the flare is that big a deal ???

I’m definitely a lot more anxious about cutting carbon fiber handlebars than alloy steerer tubes though

[El Chupacabra]

After you cut the steerer tube (I use a hacksaw in a bike specific guide), clean up the outside edge of the steerer at the cut, using a file -- you don't want any sharp burrs against the inside of the stem clamp.

The inside of the steerer tube doesn't matter; you're just shoving a star fangled nut in there.

[sfotex]

Ok, I picked up a old S-works cyclocross bike for $100. It has 10-speed Ultegra STI on it. I'm fixing it up for my son to ride around as a gravel-esque bike.
Cassette is a 11-23 or something like that, I want to go up to like a 35 or so in the rear. Front rings are 48/38

What is a mid-price rear derailleur to handle a 2x 11-35?
Shimano makes a Gravel 10 speed rear that is cheap and looks like an option: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ.../RD-RX400.html

[carlh]

Shimano 10sp road will work with 9 or 10 speed MTB derailleurs too. The clutch is nice for rougher terrain. Should be available new or used at many price points. My commuter has 105 shifters and a deore derailleur.

Ok, I picked up an old S-works cyclocross bike for $100. It has 10-speed Ultegra STI on it. I'm fixing it up for my son to ride around as a gravel-esque bike.
Cassette is a 11-23 or something like that, I want to go up to like a 35 or so in the rear. Front rings are 48/38

What is a mid-price rear derailleur to handle a 2x 11-35?
Shimano makes a Gravel 10 speed rear that is cheap and looks like an option: https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ.../RD-RX400.html

[sfotex]

Shimano 10sp road will work with 9 or 10 speed MTB derailleurs too. The clutch is nice for rougher terrain. Should be available new or used at many price points. My commuter has 105 shifters and a deore derailleur.

I'm trying to figure out what will work with a 2x with in 11-35. The 105 medium cage says it works with an 11-34 gear range, and since its a road der I imagine it handles 2x in the front ok. But the gravel der seems like its designed for what I want and is like $56 and has a clutch, so it seems like a good candidate. There's a Shimano rear der in short, medium, and long cage now and some 2x options in the front.

[teledad]

I don't think the GRX derailleur (or Tiagra 4700) is compatible with a 10-speed Ultegra shifter - they use the 11-speed cable pull ratio.

If the crankset is 110 BCD you could swap the 38 for a 34 in the front and use a 11-32 in the back with a 105 medium cage derailleur. The other option is a 9 speed MTB derailleur (e.g. Deore).

[jamal]

Is 11-35 a cassette that actually even exists? Most shimano wide range road/gravel cassettes only go up to 11-34. And then there's 11-36.

Anyway yeah the grx 10s derailleur will work and handle it. Also, with only a 10t gap between your rings that gives you more range on the rear derailleur, although with a slightly less than ideal b-gap and shifting maybe. edit- oh right the grx 10s is different than old 10s sorry

New cranks/chainrings are another way to do it. 48/38 is kind of useless for anything but cyclocross. Now a "gravel" double is usually 46/30 so you could go from an easiest gear of 38x23 to 30x36.

[sfotex]

Is 11-35 a cassette that actually even exists? Most shimano wide range road/gravel cassettes only go up to 11-34. And then there's 11-36.

Anyway yeah the grx 10s derailleur will work and handle it. Also, with only a 10t gap between your rings that gives you more range on the rear derailleur, although with a slightly less than ideal b-gap and shifting maybe.

New cranks/chainrings are another way to do it. 48/38 is kind of useless for anything but cyclocross. Now a "gravel" double is usually 46/30 so you could go from an easiest gear of 38x23 to 30x36.

Ha, yeah, it will be 11-34 or 36, I haven't ordered yet so I split it. I will also probably replace the front rings at some point, I got a new rear wheel for it with a wider rim so I'm trying to figure out the rear end right now..

[Dee Hubbs]

Ha, yeah, it will be 11-34 or 36, I haven't ordered yet so I split it. I will also probably replace the front rings at some point, I got a new rear wheel for it with a wider rim so I'm trying to figure out the rear end right now..

You need a rear derailleur that's is:
-driven by a 10s STI
-clutched preferred
-handle 36t
-2x capable
That's a tough ask.

That 10s GRX RD-RX400 sounds like a good option, but it does not work with your current 10S STI lever. It only works with the 10s GRX and Tiagra levers that utilize a 11s pull ratio (Compatible only with 10-speed ST-RX400, ST-4700, ST4720, ST-4725, ST-RS405 and SL-4700 shift levers)

There is a lot of different info on mixing MTB and road components. My understanding is 7,8,9 speed MTB derailleur can be driven by a 10s road STI,
and clutches don't exist on any Shimano 9s MTB derailleurs.

The only RD kinda close is the 105 Med Cage with a 32T max.

[forty]

shimano 10spd road shifter to 10spd mtb rear der
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/tanpan

[Norseman]

^ I was trying to remember the name of the Wolf Tooth thingy on my CX bike to adapt its 105 road der to the 11-36 cassette... it's the "RoadLink"

[mcski]

Would you even need it for 36? I thought it was more to get cogs into the 40s??

[sfotex]

Would you even need it for 36? I thought it was more to get cogs into the 40s??

The largest cog on the older Ultegra rear der is 28 I believe?

Found this helpful chart: https://www.mantel.com/uk/blog/derai...mum-techcenter

[sfotex]

shimano 10spd road shifter to 10spd mtb rear der
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/tanpan

Thanks! I was looking at the Links on their site today but glossed over the Tanpan.