Electric Bike Thread

[Dantheman]

well you might be hacking the motor in which case it might void the warranty,

but I'm talking about an e-bike bought from a real bike store made by a real bike company

It's listed on the specs and they provide the instructions, so warranty doesn't seem to be much of a concern.

[Name Redacted]

wow can i drink your bath water ?

I only sell it in Gallons and the labels are only in English, so probably can't ship across the border.

[Sinfield]

[QUOTE=GravityDT;7070203]

It is nuts. I didn't ride my moto last summer once other than a couple trials bike sessions. The ebike is that much fun.

Actually SOLD the moto to fund the ebike last Fall. Zero regrets, especially since most of the trails we were riding out in the Big Holes on the moto are ridiculously fun on the ebike. Also probably scored a few bonus points with the wifey as I usually ended up riding solo on a bunch of moto rides and safety-wise probably wasn't the smartest move..... I'm still not giving up pedalling the amish bike by no means but the ebike has been an amazing addition to the quiver. Now to line up an ebike for the wifey.....

Just did the same. Sold a DRZ I never rode and have an Orbea Rise heading my way tomorrow. Went a little crazy on extra parts and have a 216x63 fox coil, mullet wheelset, bigger rotors, and a charger 2.1 kit to flip an old yari into lyric ult spec. Should be a sweet little mini enduro ride and still on the lighter side.

We have some epic riding around Hood River, but it takes 30min to drive to Post, whereas I have miles of epic moto trails right out my back door for a quicker and less crowded ride.

Pretty pumped to add a new toy to the quiver

[XXX-er]

The battery for my EP8 quit charging cuz the port is visibly damaged so I have been pulling the battery to charge it with the adapter which is a bit of a pain so I ordered the Shimano EW-CP100 Satellite Charging Port.

Its held on the bike with 2 allen screws, pretty easy to replace, the bike runs without it plugged in so I just slapped some ductape on the hole till the part comes

[grinch]

^^wear and tear eh

Amazing stats especially for new cyclists
https://bc.ctvnews.ca/pretty-remarka...-use-1.6876226

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[XXX-er]

The charge port is in a really dumb spot down low on the Bullit so I might have hit the plug while it was still charging with a pedal or sft

this time last year I broke/pulled a wire out of the display riding in some willows and I was dead in the water until the new wire came so this is the second time the e-bike part of the bike has fucked up, at least I can still ride and its been easy to get parts/ fix

[grinch]

Right on. File that under "shit happens".
Mines not inthe best spot either but so far so good. Underside of the downtube near the headtube. Fender seems to keep it from getting too sprayed but not ideal.
I'll prob pick up an ep8 at some point and swap.out the e8000. I guess ijust need a wire that has ep8 connections at both ends. Then splice the ep8 ends/connectors in place of my e8000 connectors. One splice for the speed semsor wire and one for the computer. Apparently the e8000 computer will work w the ep8

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[rideit]

Damn, I can’t wait for Shimano DI3 CUES (XT) to come out.
If it is what I think, 11 speed, 11-50, fully wireless electronic derailluer.
I just replaced a rear cable housing on the Rocky, and it’s just SUCH a bitch, even with fairly good technique.
Pathetic, really.
I’m not a fan (so far) of the delayed transmission shifting, hope Shimano can speed this up, and be just as smooth. I don’t really have a problem with clunky shifts, I still soft-pedal before shifting (40 years of muscle memory), sometimes this is actually easier with the motor being able to feather the torque. But yeah, once there is a really good wireless 210 post, cables will be gone except for brake.
I’m considering just using frame cable guides for simplicity next time.

[grinch]

Im down with that. Wireless seems so functional. Pinion sounds like theyve got it dialed. It shifts when the cranks are vertical at low tourque via sensor. Ive been keeping an eye on "3x3" still just oem but tgey have , a lighter than rohloff, internal geared hub w electronic shifting.
Until then my microshift advent x 10spd 11-50 is working quite well

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[XXX-er]

Cable replacement on the Bullit is painful so I bought a 10pack of shimano inner cables and I'm just replacing those instead of going thru the misery of doing the housing as well, also lubing with pro gold makes a big difference, the 1 piece cable has an S bend at the BB so the lube doesnt get past it unless I hang the bike from the front wheel

[meter-man]

How do you like your Bullit? I may be buying a low mileage X01 RSV this week.

My pedal bike is a Transition Spire and looking for something similar. I previously had an Orbea Rise but ultimately found it to be a touch too flexy in the rear and overwhelmed by chunk and only okay on jumps. And I wanted full-POWERRR. Sold the Rise a couple years ago and now ready to jump back in with a full-power long-travel eeb and there are a lot of cheap Bullits on the used market right now…


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[XXX-er]

How do you like your Bullit? I may be buying a low mileage X01 RSV this week.

My pedal bike is a Transition Spire and looking for something similar. I previously had an Orbea Rise but ultimately found it to be a touch too flexy in the rear and overwhelmed by chunk and only okay on jumps. And I wanted full-POWERRR. Sold the Rise a couple years ago and now ready to jump back in with a full-power long-travel eeb and there are a lot of cheap Bullits on the used market right now…


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I like the Bullit ALOT, 7 " of travel and slack angles, I find it handles well and everything is a berm

I had an Orbea on order but who knows when it would show up in the thick of covid so when I texted shop bro wondering if I should go big he shot me a pict of the Bullit so cha ching, no regrets

at the time the lowest spec Bullit with NX was still 11500 can $ so it cost me and actualy the NX works/ wears really well

[Spats]

Talk to me about commuter eebs. My distance to the office is about to jump from 6 miles to 15 miles so daily bike commuting will become impractical without a motor. I tested it out yesterday and in ideal conditions (high 50s, light tailwind, no traffic) it took 1:05. With an ebike I figure I can cut that down to 40-45 minutes which brings daily use back into the sphere of possibility and pretty close to driving or taking the train.

A super fancy rig like the SC Skitch is definitely not in the budget. What brands/models offer the best compromise between quality/performance and cost? Ideally I'm looking for a flat bar commuter style. No fat tires, folding, etc. type nonsense.

The Velotric T1 ST looks intriguing.
https://www.velotricbike.com/product...41729524039863

Is converting my current bike (Canyon Roadlite) with a hub drive wheel a terrible idea?

The Velotric's battery isn't removable, which means it'll be difficult to charge at work unless you can bring it inside. But it has a torque sensor and everything else looks good. (Battery is only 350Wh, but for a bike that costs $1100 that's expected.) I wouldn't care about the lack of a speedometer or display, and it's super clean otherwise. If the nonremovable battery doesn't bother you, it's a solid option.

If it's a Bafang motor you can buy aftermarket dongles that bump the speed limit upward, but it's private branded so I can't tell who makes it.

The Aventon Soltera 2 is slightly less sleek, but has very similar specs:
https://www.aventon.com/products/soltera-2-ebike

If you have $2000+ a Yamaha CrossCore RC or Diamondback Current will stomp all over these.
Crosscore is normally $3100 but Yamaha is clearing them out and you can find them for $2000-2500. Yamaha mid drive motor, big battery, Class 3.
DB is down to $2500 with a Bosch mid-drive, which I believe is also Class 3.
https://www.diamondback.com/bikes/eb...s/current-4661

A converted bike will always be less usable than a purpose designed e-bike. There are cables zip-tied everywhere, and you can't leave it anywhere because people can walk off with your battery. And resale value on a conversion is basically zero. I don't recommend it unless you somehow find a kit with a decent battery and a torque sensor for <$400, which is unlikely.

[joetron]

What do the TGR EExperts think of Yamaha e-mtbs? Is the smaller battery and wheel size a deal breaker?


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[Dantheman]

The Velotric's battery isn't removable, which means it'll be difficult to charge at work unless you can bring it inside. But it has a torque sensor and everything else looks good. (Battery is only 350Wh, but for a bike that costs $1100 that's expected.) I wouldn't care about the lack of a speedometer or display, and it's super clean otherwise. If the nonremovable battery doesn't bother you, it's a solid option.

After reading a lot of reviews I think it would cover a flat 30 mile RT on one charge easily (at least until the battery starts degrading) so not too concerned about the non-removable battery.

The reviews are impressively positive. After looking around a lot more nothing seems to compare in terms of a total package of price, performance, and aesthetics. But, I think I'm going to hold off and give the new gig 6 months or so before I invest in one.


eta: One thing I can't figure out is why the T1 ST lists a 50 mile range but the T1 is listed as 70 miles. They have same motor, same battery, same drivetrain, and same listed weight--how can the range be that different?

[One (+) Sentence]

What do the TGR EExperts think of Yamaha e-mtbs? Is the smaller battery and wheel size a deal breaker?


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I’m no E-Expertz, but I would imagine a 500wh battery, 27.5” wheels, and a 435mm reach on a size MD could spell trouble at the retail level.

85nm of torque sounds fun though and I don’t think Yamaha is going out of business any time soon.

[XXX-er]

What do the TGR EExperts think of Yamaha e-mtbs? Is the smaller battery and wheel size a deal breaker?

I don't know anything about the Yamaha but you don't see much written about them

IMO If you wana go Ebike I can't figure out why anyone would not go full power 85nm with at least 630 W of battery, the shimano 630W battery gives me enough run time to do 3-4 hrs at the area, the 630W has been available for close to 3 yrs and a 27.5/ 29 mullet config makes everything a berm uphill or down

most of the motors put out around 85mn of power, alot of new e-bike wananbes shop for a motor that is attached to a bike,

I suggest you wana shop for a bike which also happens to have a motor & battery

[rod9301]

I don't know about the bike itself, but the Yamaha motor is very reliable

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[Andeh]

IMO If you wana go Ebike I can't figure out why anyone would not go full power 85nm with at least 630 W of battery

So, I had a 90nm ebike with 720wh battery, and "downgraded" to a 60nm / 430wh battery. The biggest reason is ride quality. I weigh <165 lbs without gear, and a full power ebike is 52+ lbs. That sort of weight rides dramatically different than a 35 lb enduro bike, especially when trying to pop off things or hit tight corners at speed. For someone closer to 200 lbs, a 50+ lb bike is proportionately the same relative to their body weight as my 44 lb "SL" bike, so it makes a lot more sense for them. Furthermore, range out of a battery is almost directly proportionate to rider+bike weight, so those heavier riders are going to need a bigger battery to go as far as a lighter rider. The final other consideration is how often you're really going to go out on a ride long enough to drain your battery. When I got the Levo, I envisioned that I'd be out draining the battery all the time. In reality, I typically only have about 1.5-2.5 hours of ride time after work or on weekend mornings due to family commitments. So while I could do ~5,500 ft in 3 hrs on Turbo with the Levo, I can do ~4,500 ft in 2:15 on the Heckler SL, and it is more fun to ride. 18% less range, 40% less battery.

In answer to Joetron's question, I haven't used or talked to anyone on a Yamaha-motored ebike. My recommendations for someone looking at getting a first ebike are:
1) get one that has local support for dealing with motor warranty work. None of the motors are perfect, and there's a high chance you'll warranty a motor within your time owning it.
2) get one that is actually a good bike too. All the motors will get you to the top - sure some will have a bit more torque for steeps, some will have better apps or displays, etc., but what you'll notice most over time is how fun the bike part is to ride (especially descend).
3) take an honest look at how much ride time you have, how much you weigh, and what your riding style is. If you're big (~200+ lbs) and want to do long rides with lots of assist, you're going to need a 700+ wh battery. If you're lighter (~160 lbs) and only are going to ride for a couple hours, something with a 400-500 wh battery is fine. The SL/mid-power (50-60 nm torque) ebikes are going to be better suited for lighter, fitter riders looking for a ride experience closer to a normal bike. The full power (85+ nm) ebikes are better suited for heavier or less fit riders, or doing lots of really steep climbs. Also, the full power motor is much nicer for hauling a bag full of tools when doing trail work.

[grinch]

I can see the advantage of the new sl/mid weight emtbs. Tighter trails and spinning up roads for dh laps. Im not sure i could part with my full fat though. Its just so stable at speed or in loose rock or sand and steep tech trialsy fun. In a perfect world i'd like both. As always n+1. I found my 38lb enduro bike soo twitchy when i first got on it after riding my full fat for a while. 44 does sound about right for a happy medium.
Recently heard a few good things on the yamaha. I thought the geo was kind of wack but ive been hearing they measure their seat angle differently. Havent confirmed it and maybe they dont list effective seat angle. Number listed seemed like 90's geo. I'd want to demo.
Motors are good. They haul the mail, rebuildable, easily accesible parts and support and they use battery power quite efficiently although not quite as efficient as bosch. I think tge thing to watch for is water ingress. I hear theyre not super sealed and reports of rentals get submerged and the rider having to wait a while for it to dry to restart. Not recommended for wet climate but its also suggested that can be addressed by the owner. Sounds like adding some seal around the, possibly plastic, external cover in front below the battery. Motor repair guys use a particular quality grease tp protect around the axle/bearing interface as well. Not sure if theyre adding seals on yammies like they are on other motors but possibly

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[meter-man]

Oddball question: I have a Lolo rack because we have lots of bikers in our fam (4...).

For bikes with the handlebar-mounted computer (Shimano EM-800 only?), the Lolo hooks go right where the computer is - obviously not a good idea to wedge the computer into the hooks and have the bike suspended by the computer. Is there anyway to carry on a Lolo bikes with those computers?

I tried with my buddy's Repeater, and I could not figure it out. The wires appeared to be too short to unscrew the computer and move it down the bar. Typically, I would just do that for handlebar-mounted stuff - just unscrew and take it off. But it did not appear that there was excess wire on the computers to allow me to loosen and remove it.

Options:
1) Is there excess wire within the frame that allows you to loosen and pull the computer down the bars? It didn't look like it, and that would be a dumb way to build a computer interface.
2) Or can you simply "unplug" the Shimano computer, take off, put back on, and plug back in without any issues? I expect that is the answer but did not want to try it on my buddy's bike without knowing for sure.

So...Lolo now sells a DH hanger that I think will accommodate the stem-side computer. I just ordered it and will report back. https://loloracks.com/products/dh-compatible-hook

Important, because I'll be hauling this beauty around!

[mcski]

Nice van

[XXX-er]

Important, because I'll be hauling this beauty around!

so you bought the Bullit

All the cables and wiring are cable tied securley in that down tube and they must be snipped to do anything with cables or wiring, if you kack a wire ( I did ) there is a label on the wire, i also broke the charge port they are all easy enough to order on line

IME one those mucky nuts fenders you cable strap on the swingarm makes a big difference for keeping smoo off the shock and the area around the shock, I liked it enough i bought one for the front fork, if you don't like their logos on the fenders just run them upside down

after a couple of years the battery latch might loosen off from holding the weight of that battery inside the down tube so keep an eye on the 6 or 8 bolts, DON'T break the battery latch getting the battery out cuz while the latch does use a allen bolt head the latch does not unscrew like an allen bolt, it turns a 1/4 turn I forget which way but people fuck it up so I mention it

no real problems in >2 yrs, just replace shit that wears out and its a great bike IME

I really like the mullet handling, its better than the 29x29 yeti 5.5 which was the last bike

[TAFKALVS]

I’ve had a Transition Repeater for the last year, and really enjoy it. I alternate riding it with my Transition Spire.

Both are really fun, the Repeater is great when I feel like focusing on the riding instead of the pedaling, and it’s basically eliminated shuttling for me.

I’ve actually seen my fitness markably increase because of the ebike, it allows me to go out and do rides where my HR is 130 - 150bpm and I can hold the tempo for hours whereas on a regular bike our trails up here are so steep that couldn’t sustain hours of 170+ bpm grinding up steep trails. I’d just get gassed and only be able to do a few miles of that and then have to stop, take breaks, walk, etc.

after a year of ebike I now can sustain a more enjoyable hr on the regular bike.

The ebike also opens the door to ride moto trails and steep hiking trails that otherwise wouldn’t be fun on a bike.



Plus the ability for the human to climb at 15-20mph makes the GSP very happy.

After a year of use, I want to:

Bump the front travel to 170mm from 160mm (and maybe upgrade to a 2nd gen Zeb or Fox 38 grip 2 or an Ohlins 38 - the first gen Zeb feels a little mushy or overly firm and I can’t seem to find the happy balance.)

Swap the Magura MT7 for TRP DHR Evos (don’t like the lever feel of the MT7)

Otherwise the bike has been flawless. You learn to ignore the shimano rattle.

[powking12]

My apologies. I tried to do a quick search, but this is kind of time sensitive. I’m not an E-mtb guy at all so my knowledge is very thin here. Have a chance to pick up a 2018 Levo fattie with the Brose 1.3. 9000 km. Lady driven.

Any feedback? price seems very good 2100 Canadian.